Nara Japan: Little City with a Big History

Host to eight World Heritage Sites

Until Nara was established in 710, Shinto death taboos decreed that capitals move when each Emperor died. Japan’s first permanent capital existed only 75 years. During the Nara period, Japanese culture integrated many influences from China, particularly the adoption of Buddhism.

Lasting effects are reflected in government, arts, literature and architecture. Today, eight World Heritage Sites are located in Nara, making this little city a repository for Japanese culture, second only to Kyoto.

My husband, son and I spent a day walking back in time, visiting Nara on a day-trip from Osaka. An express train took us straight to Nara-koen (park) where the sites we most wanted to see were located. When we arrived, light rain was falling with mist drifting above the trees. Investing in a sturdy umbrella, we began strolling.

Nara-koen, created during the 1800s from wasteland, stretches over the base of Wakokusa-yama Mountain. Over 1200 deer live in all corners of the spacious park. During pre-Buddhist times, they were considered messengers of the gods, while today, they are designated national treasures. Groups of gentle deer nudged us persistently for food and even fawns understood that visitors hand out shika-sembei (special biscuits), available for a few yen from vendors along the way.

A festive atmosphere prevailed along the cobbled approach to Nara’s most important attraction, the famed temple of Todai-ji. Strings of colorful shops filled with artifacts, kites, and hot snacks edged the street. Over-sized umbrellas in shimmering reds, blues and greens protected the vendors roasting sweet potatoes, and young rickshaw drivers in traditional uniform patiently waited to tuck prospective patrons under thick wool rugs. We were soon at Todai-ji.

This temple was our inspiration for visiting ancient Nara and we were not disappointed. To reach the temple, we passed through enormous gates guarded by two fierce figures. Carved in the 13thcentury, the wooden statues are among the finest in Japan, their expressions so detailed that they almost seem alive.

Daibutsu-den (Great Buddha Hall) is the largest wooden building on earth. Rebuilt in 1709, the Hall we saw was actually only two-thirds the size of the original. The Daibutsu (Great Buddha), originally cast in 746, is one of the world’s largest bronze figures. The immense recast figure measures 16 meters high, embodies 437 tons of bronze and 130 kilograms of gold. Some historians believe an emperor commissioned this Buddha as a charm against the smallpox ravaging Japan. We greatly admired this “Cosmic Buddha,” who extends mercy without discrimination.

As we circled slowly around the immense statue illuminated by flickering candles, perfume from countless sticks of incense wafted high into the air. Flowers were scattered everywhere. At the back of Buddha stood a tall column with a hole at its base. Temple lore states that anyone who can squeeze through that hole, exactly the size of Buddha’s nostril, is ensured of enlightenment.

Children slipped easily through the hole while some optimistic adults made serious efforts, many getting stuck. Our son, in his 20s, tall and slim, decided to try. He wriggled through successfully. The rest of us looked at him in awe as he sauntered away, smiling humbly but standing taller.

Umbrellas bloomed and bobbed along the stone walkway as we made our way back, drifting past tiny shops offering exotic icons and brocaded amulets in vibrant colors and blessed for every imaginable wish: prosperity, harmonious relationships, luck and even examination success. Our son bought an elaborately embroidered amulet for his grandparents, the intricate gold and silver threads signifying health and longevity.

Strolling eastward we climbed steep flights of stone steps taking us ever upward. On the way we passed two halls: Nigatsu-do known for its water drawing ceremony; and Sangatsu-do, the oldest building on the Todai-ji site, but today housing a collection of rare statuary. Inside, a group of uniformed school children listened attentively as a young priest lectured eloquently, singling out each statue with a large flashlight beam.

At the woodsy base of the hill stood the shrine we had been seeking, Kasuga Taisha, founded in the 8thcentury and rebuilt every 20 years according to Shinto tradition. Lanterns lined the pathway leading to the shrine.

Standing on the wide wooden veranda high above Nara, we gazed over the dramatic city vista before walking back through the park toward the train station. On the way down, we sauntered along a cobbled street passing through a pretty neighborhood below the shrine.

Immaculately groomed postage-stamp gardens, colorful roadside shrines and wandering deer, all awash in silver rain, formed a picturesque mosaic. Brisk breezes drove us into a small cafe near the station where we could sit by a window and look out over a garden. Steaming bowls of udon noodles topped with crisp tempura shrimp and vegetables revived us as we wielded our chopsticks. Finally, little cups of green tea ended our day of rich history.

We caught a train and were soon back in Osaka after a magical walk in old Japan.

Author : Chris Millikan