Santo Domingo, Dominion Republic

Historic Santo Domingo lives on as a World Heritage Site

After discovering the Bahamas, Columbus sailed south to Hispaniola. There, he established Santo Domingo in 1496, which became the center for Spanish explorations. Now it’s home to three million people and is the Dominican Republic’s capital city. Historic Santo Domingo lives on as a World Heritage Site. Best explored by leisurely strolls, the walled Zona Colonial encloses 500 remarkable years of history within eleven square blocks.

Many visitors choose, as we did, to stay in the Zona. The Palacio Hotel, a former 17thcentury presidential residence, immersed us in the heart of the colonial city. After breakfasting in Palacio’s tropical courtyard, our walking adventures began.

At nearby Parque Colon plaza a central monument depicts a native Taino witnessing Columbus’ arrival. Behind the Great Admiral’s statue stands a prominent legacy, one of the Americas’ first cathedrals. After Columbus’s son Diego inherited his father’s title, Viceroy of the Indies, he arrived in 1508 with many nobles and skilled masons prepared to create a great city.

Diego set the Cathedral’s first stone in 1514. From 1521, numerous architects supervised its actual construction, developing Gothic vaults, Romanesque arches and Baroque ornamentation. Fourteen magnificent and individually designed chapels distinguish the interior. The cathedral and other colonial structures utilized massive white coralline blocks. Consequently, old Santo Domingo presents a lasting majesty. The colonial buildings have endured earthquakes, hurricanes, and the ravages of time.

Two blocks further, a distinct coat of arms and unique architecture identifies Casa del Tostado, the lavish residence of writer Francisco Tostado. Once, its orchards extended all the way to the Caribbean. An open courtyard and breezy terrace graciously hosted visits or lively fiestas. Today, as a museum, its period furnishings represent Spanish colonial life, while through the study’s lacy Moorish window, the clatter of horses and carriages can almost be heard.

The formidable Fortaleza de Santo Domingo (1505) lies due west. This military complex guarded the Caribbean entry to the Ozama River. From the central Tower of Homage, we surveyed the thick, high walls and cannon emplacements. Attacks seemed futile.

We exited the fort’s massive gates onto “Calle de Las Damas” (Street of The Ladies) renowned as the America’s first paved street (1502) and a promenade for distinguished ladies, including Diego Columbus’ wife Dona Maria de Toledo. Dominicans have long cherished the street’s grand buildings, sea breezes, and waterfront views. No wonder so many of the rich and famous resided there.

Rodrigo de Bastida, patriarch of the colony’s most influential family, built his palatial home next to the fortress. It now houses several cultural institutions. Next door resided Fray Nicholas de Ovando, Santo Domingo’s chief architect and governor. His splendid home has become a hotel boasting period furniture. Hernando Cortez, conquistador of Mexico, lived across the street. The Cortez residence became the French Embassy, which welcomes visitors. Just around the comer stood the New World’s first university. Known as the “House of Gargoyles”, this gothic structure later housed a Jesuit order and currently, the Institute of Hispanic Culture.

Crossing the Calle de Las Damas, I stopped at a colorful fruit stand and negotiated the purchase of four small bananas for six pesos. The “fruitero” insisted I call this fruit guineos, its rightful Taino-Dominican name, not the usual Spanish platanos, for banana.

After munching two sweet guineos, we entered the nearby colonial government’s Renaissance-style “Casas de Reales”, now the Museum of Royal Houses. Expedition rooms currently display Columbus’ original journals, artifacts, and information on his four extensive voyages. The viceroy’s throne room and common courtrooms were replicated. There, colonial administrators and judges set critical precedents and resolved conflicts. These chambers heard pleas to end native slavery, but these came too late to save the Tainos from extinction.

When I asked about a wall indentation, our guide, cocking his eyebrow, replied, “Here, Sir Francis Drake plundered a gold cross. In 1586 his twenty-three ships captured our city. Each day his pirates destroyed one city block to extort an unattainable ransom. Our government could not meet his demands. Ultimately, our citizens gathered what they could. They convinced Drake to take these valuables and leave.”

In earlier and better times, the Diego Columbus family resided just below “Casas de Reales” in the Alcazar. Their palace blended Moorish and Gothic architecture, achieving both elegance and comfort. Its back terrace opened to sea breezes and bustling commerce. The equally large front terrace faced the city’s daily activities. Authentic furnishings, cited as the most significant collection in the Americas, reflect 16thcentury opulence.

During two further days of exploration, we strolled Calle de Las Damas’ to enter a 16thcentury customs depot transformed into a naval museum full of shipwreck artifacts and early voyage accounts, then marched atop the Zona’s fortified walls and made pilgrimages to many churches and chapels. We contemplated two intriguing ruins: the New World’s first Franciscan Monastery (1508), originally built upon a 13thcentury Taino palace, and the first Hospital (1503), constructed by Governor Ovando’s order. Both now provide venues for cultural events.

For over three days we ventured where the New World began. Every day we stepped back five centuries to the Golden Age of Discovery. Historic Santo Domingo, impressive, charming, and thought provoking, provided a highly memorable experience.

More Information on Santo Domingo, Dominion Republic:

Puerto Plata’s Caribe Tours (809-586-4544) and Metro Tours (809-586-6061) provides frequent, inexpensive and comfortable cross island bus services to Santo Domingo.

At nearby Playa Cabarete, Iguana Mama offers Mountain Bike, Hiking & Cross Cultural Vacations including adventure tours to Santo Domingo. Reservations Discounted! www.iguanamama.com (809-571-0908) (USA toll free 800-849-4720) (Fax: 809-571-0734)

Where to Stay in Santo Domingo, Dominion Republic:

Hotel Palacio in the heart of the historic Zona Colonial, Santo Domingo, R.D. www.hotel-palacio.com (809-682-4730) or(Fax: 809-687-5535) Calypso Beach Hotel & Mambo Restaurant at Boca Chica is a Carribean retreat one half hour south of Santo Domingo. (809-523-4666) (Fax 809-532-4829).

Author: Rick Millikan and Chris Millikan