St. Martin Island Provides Fun and Fascination

‘European’ Caribbean vacation is royal way to travel the sensational French isle

Whisked away on an over-night charter flight, we escaped a cold, dark winter and awakened on a warm Caribbean isle.

Upon landing at Juliana International Airport, many passengers disembarked at Dutch St. Maarten to luxuriate on splendid beaches, shop duty-free in the historic capital of Phillipsburg, and enjoy a scintillating nightlife. We chose a mellower sojourn at a secluded French resort in St. Martin.

Rounding Simpson Bay, our bus passed a notable monument marking the French-Dutch border and observing 150 years of harmony.

Legend recounts how nearby, a wine-sipping Frenchman and a beer-toting Dutchman set off on foot in opposite directions. They walked over the island’s arid hills and along its 36 gorgeous beaches, meeting at Oyster Bay. The boundary was drawn between these bays.

The original Arawak Indians called this island Soualiga, “land of salt”. Fourteen French families colonized the northern area around 1625. Dutch traders settled the south six years later. The French and Dutch soon developed the lucrative salt deposits, and rock pathways still crisscross the saline ponds. In the 1960s, the commercial salt industry collapsed.

Many travelers venture to French St. Martin for gourmet cuisine. Cordially welcomed at the resort reception, we slipped into the adjoining courtyard to savor coffee au lait, succulent fruit, warm pastries, and specially prepared omelets.

Beyond providing themed buffets, Mont Vernon offers guests opportunities for gourmet dining at off-property restaurants. So, following a pleasant stroll that evening, a restaurant named Le Taitu fully initiated us into the pleasures of Creole gastronomy.Mont Vernon is perched above the quiet end of beautiful Orient Beach. Chic restaurants, nightclubs, shops and resorts bordered its lively three-kilometer crescent beach often compared to San Tropez.

In swim trunks, bikinis or nothing at all, sunbathers stroll the golden shoreline. Others cavort in the rolling waves, often mounting sailboards, kite boards or jet skis.

Behind a naturists’ enclave at the southeast end, we followed a trail to Galion Bay’s calm and crystal waters for a swim. Sometimes called Baby Bay, it’s perfect for children.Another day we took a short hike west, catching a water-taxi to neighboring Pinel Island to lounge about and snorkel its marine reserve.

A brief drive linked further attractions. Hundreds of butterflies in floral habitats draw visitors to the Butterfly Farm. While witnessing butterflies emerging from leafy chrysalides, owner William Slayter wryly described the butterflies’ life cycle.

“Butterfly-girl exits her cocoon with pubescent passion with clock ticking. She has four days to snatch a mate. Using sensitive antennae, she tracks down flutter-boys from miles away. Then this amazing gal selects favorite edible plants to lay her eggs.” Slayter pointed out baby caterpillars munching choice milkweed leaves.

Flutter-gals and flutter-guys soared and drifted everywhere in all directions. A few multicolored beauties settled on brightly-hued blouses and shirts. Complimentary rum punch managed our dehydration, and also managed to attract some exquisite butterflies.Above picturesque Grand Case, Loterie Farm emerges as an emerald-green paradise. A lucky Brit won the acreage in 1721, cleared the land, established sugarcane atop rock-walled terraces and planted mango trees along a burbling stream. When water became scarce, the plantation failed.

In 1995, entrepreneur B.J. Welch bought the 165 abandoned acres and labored to reestablish natural forest habitat. Following B.J. up a shaded path along the creek, we gazed upon the historic grove of mango trees now 15 meters high. B.J. grinned, “When the local mayor owned this farm, he used mangoes to buy votes.”

Stretching cables through these towering trees, plucky adventurers now zip-line across its green basin.

The forest canopy thickened as we continued our walk. B.J. showed us several varieties of fig trees and explained how distinguishing natural and introduced vegetation is difficult because hurricanes continually bring new life to St. Martin.

Red, white and yellow guava berry trees grew further up. This fruit has a distinguished history. Island households have long concocted delectable guava berry liqueurs for special occasions.

Spotting a luminous blue-green hummingbird, I asked about the number of bird sightings. B.J. said bird watchers have counted more than 200 varieties.

Exploring seven miles of stony trails, hikers observe exotic birds, green monkeys and raccoons. Some trek up to Paradise Peak, the highest spot on the island. Upon their return, they may join gourmands delighting in the internationally acclaimed Hidden Forest Café.

After driving 15 minutes more, we arrived in stylish Marigot. Shiny red, blue, and green metallic roofs seem to cascade down the lush surrounding hillsides. Vivid latticework, wrought iron and lacy gingerbread adorn breezy balconies affording panoramas of St. Martin’s little capital and cozy harbor.

Strolling shady sidewalks, we viewed time-worn offices, stores and churches. Recent structures adopt colonial designs thanks to encouraging ordinances. Among fashionable shops bordering Port La Royale Marina, we relaxed in an open-air bistro to savor some exquisite seafood.

Refreshed, we climbed atop the ruins of Fort Louis where rusty canons recall a turbulent past. After a Spanish occupation, the Partition Treaty of 1648 divided the island between France and the Netherlands. However, the Dutch, French, and English continued feuding over its sovereignty, and St. Martin exchanged hands 16 times before establishing a permanent border in 1817.

South of Marigot, we relaxed on golden sands while brown pelicans flapped above the turquoise waters toward Baie Rouge’s ochre-red cliffs. Sipping icy guava berry coladas from the beach bar, we chatted about island evolution.

Sporting a salty history, St. Martin now boasts haut cuisine. Named ‘Saint Martin of Tours’ by Columbus, it’s now Saint Martin of tourism. Enticed by its European Caribbean culture and natural beauty, we discovered a fascinating and welcome haven.

Author: Rick Millikan and Chris Millikan