Virgin Islands Vacation - A Caribbean Odyssey aboard Crown Princess

Cruising the Caribbean Islands

Through the cobwebs of sleep, the sound of a barking dog alerted me to the fact that our ship, the Crown Princess, had reached its first port of call in the eastern Caribbean.

With a sense of excitement, I left my cabin and raced up to the top deck. Immediately I was engulfed in the warm humid air with its distinct aroma - a potpourri of frangipani, jasmine and warm earth. Stretched before me were the lush hillsides of St. Thomas dotted with pastel colored homes. Soon I was joined by jogging aficionados who were probably working off a surfeit of profiteroles consumed at the midnight buffet.

Once cleared for disembarkation, we began our exploration of the picturesque port of Charlotte Amalie, starting at Emancipation Gardens Park, so named in commemoration of the 1848 emancipation of the slaves. From here, throngs of shopping enthusiasts headed along Dronningens Gade (named after Danish colonists) in search of duty-free bargains in gold, liquor, fine linens and designer clothes.

Being of a more solitary persuasion, I visited the charming Frederick Lutheran Church, which dates back to 1820, then climbed the hill to Government House, the official residence of the governor of the U.S. Virgin Islands. Like so many of the nearby homes, this neoclassical white structure boasts intricate wrought ironwork.

A few minutes further up the gecko-strewn path are the remnants of a 17thcentury fort known as Blackbeard’s Castle. It is now just a turret but the breathtaking view of the harbor from this vantage point is worth every drop of perspiration lost in the 103 steps up from Kongen’s Gade. From this spot, one would have to agree with James A. Michener who in his book, Caribbean , refers to the Caribbean Sea as “one of the world’s most alluring bodies of water, a rare gem among the oceans.”

After our climb, we continued west and circled down towards the waterfront to reach Market Square. A turn-of-the century market shed, this is the site of the notorious slave market that in the early 18thcentury was one of the busiest in the Caribbean. Today the square is a lively open air market, and a great place for morning photo opportunities.

Back on the ship later in the afternoon, I watched the Crown Princess being nudged against the high winds and away from the pier. From eleven decks above the water, the tugboats looked like toys. However, with nary a whimper we were soon cruising past Frenchman’s Hill where in 1829, the last of the pirates were hanged. As the sun dipped quickly below the horizon, Charlotte Amalie became a backdrop of twinkling lights. Soon there would be dining and dancing followed by a gentle sleep until the next exotic port of call. The pirates of yore would surely have been envious.

Our next port was San Juan, the capital of the commonwealth of “Puerto Rico” meaning “rich port”. One of the island’s main bastions, El Morro, juts into the pounding ocean and offers magnificent views of the coastline. Built by the Spanish in 1539 it was constructed as a defense against pillage by Caribbean pirates.

Gazing down on the wild Atlantic Ocean with the wind whipping through the slats of one of the sentry boxes is a chilling experience. Looking east along the coast from El Morro we spotted an unusual cluster of edifices between the ocean and the city wall. This is San Juan cemetery which boasts elaborate tombstones and a circular neoclassic chapel.

A visit to 500-year-old San Juan is a highlight for any visitor. The seven-square-block area has been designated a world-class historic site by the United Nations. The town’s narrow blue cobblestone streets were once ballast in the holds of Spanish galleons, and filigree windows and doorways date back to the 17thand 18thcenturies. This part of the world certainly warrants a longer visit in the future.

On our homebound journey, our itinerary included a visit to the Bahamas, a cluster of islands which look like segments of a coral necklace. The capital city of Nassau on Providence Island covers only a 14-block area, so it’s best to experience the place on foot.

Most visitors swarm along Bay Street which is politely monitored by uniformed police decked out in pith helmets. Because the island is made of coral, there is no sewage system, only septic tanks. Even bodies must be buried at least six feet into the coral. No numbering system exists for homes. Instead, houses are identified by street name and house color ranging from lavender to deep turquoise.

To escape the throngs of visitors on Bay Street, we hopped on one of the local buses and sat cheek to jowl with the locals, all of us perched on collapsible seats. People were friendly and a little curious as to why people from a cruise ship would choose to travel on a local bus with gears which could grind your biggest molars to powder.

Back onboard later that day we cruised in the darkness towards Florida. I thought of Michener’s words: “It is the islands that give the Caribbean its unique charm.” I don’t think anyone would dispute that the best way to visit them is by cruise ship.

Author: Caroline M. Jackson and Hamish Jackson