Belize Vacations - Pyramid Visiting in Belize

More pyramids than people

It seems that everyone who goes to Belize ends up visiting the sacred pyramid site of Tikal in nearby Guatemala. But Belize has its own pyramids - at least fifteen major ones. Not all of them are easily accessible, and they don’t have the facilities which surround their neighbor, Tikal. But then, they’re also not as overrun with other tourists.

Several of these archaeological sites are tucked into the Cayo district, located along the central western border of Belize. The town of San Ignacio serves well as a base for pyramid visiting, and is in itself a memorable place to visit. The approach to the city is a one-lane bridge controlled by a blend of Central American driving savvy and nerve. With its narrow streets and traditional buildings, San Ignacio could easily serve as the set of a bang-em-up western movie. Although we spent one night in one of the more upscale hotels (this is a matter of relativity) outside the city, a night of battling with bedbugs persuaded us to move into the core of town. We braved one of the cheaper (read, seedy-looking) hotels, and had a wonderful sleep and even the luxury of hot water showers in the morning.

After a fabulously huge breakfast at a restaurant that could have passed for Miss Kitty’s Saloon, we headed out of town to our first pyramid, Cahal Pech (pronounced Ka-hall Pesh). It was only later we discovered the name meant “place of ticks”, although we didn’t get any bites there - maybe we should have suggested the name to the folks back at the buggy hotel.

Although there are no mounds of significant height at Cahal Pech, the site is nonetheless impressive. Our visit took place very near the winter solstice, and I couldn’t help wondering how the notches along the top of the walls might align themselves with the various altars at sunset and dawn. Many of the altar stones had worn down over the years, and they resembled old camp cots, almost sagging in the middle. Lying down on the cool stone gave me the eerie feeling of what it must have felt like to be a sacrificial victim, even though there is no documentation to suggest such practices might have occurred there.

Passageways cut into the hillside run throughout the site and exhibit an interesting archway form which does not rely on the keystone method familiar to many of us. These naturally cool walkways provide a respite from the jungle humidity. There are no facilities at the site, although there is a small park area which contains some huge native trees. These are home to a gang of monkeys and an abundance of birdlife.

After a picnic lunch, we jumped into the truck and headed off to visit another close-by pyramid, Xunantunich (Zuh-nan-uh-nitch). Reaching this site required more than a walk in from the road, as a river without a bridge was blocking our way. But a ferry provided the link that would get us to the park. This too was an adventure, as the boat was manually operated.

Like so many of the ferries which used to operate in British Columbia, Canada, this one runs along a set of cables which bridge the gap from shore to shore. But unlike its British Columbia relatives, this one lacks an engine to power its crossing. The operator turns a large metal crank which moves the boat along its way. All of us had to have a try at helping with this task, which the ferry worker didn’t seem to mind in the least. A short drive up another road took us to the spot where we paid a small entry fee for visiting.

Xunantunich is a complex and unfinished archaeological dig site. Parts of it are covered in tarps, still undergoing excavation. The major attraction at Xunantunich is a pyramid which towers some forty meters (130 feet). The climb is well worth the trek, as the view from the top is magnificent, encompassing rainforest and plantations in both Guatemala and Belize.

A beautifully preserved frieze rests partway up this tall structure, and is accessible as one climbs the many stairs to the summit. It is believed that its incredibly detailed carvings depict the sun god, the moon, the planet Venus and the days. There is some uncertainty regarding its other symbols, as so much of Mayan history has been lost.

Cayo district also has several other pyramid sites, and though these are on private lands, arrangements can be made to visit them.

Author: Heidi Greco and George Omorean