Travel Germany - A Total Change of Pace in Gotha, DE

Bargains with a Baroque atmosphere

After exploring several medieval towns, our next planned destination in eastern Germany was the historic city of Eisenach, famous for hosting Johann Sebastian Bach, Richard Wagner, Goethe, and that great church reformer, Martin Luther. We spent the better part of a day exploring Eisenach’s massive Wartburg Castle, a medieval fortress embracing what seems to be a small village within its walls. It dominates the mountaintop overlooking the city and the Thuringan Forest. Unfortunately, Eisenach was so busy that we were unable to find accommodation. Our search for refuge took us to the quiet town of Gotha, 25 minutes away. It was an accidental discovery bearing great rewards.

In the way that Tangermunde’s present is in its medieval past, Gotha’s present is firmly rooted in the Baroque of the 17thcentury.

Gotha was the seat of Duke Ernst I of Saxe-Gotha-Altenburg over 300 years ago, and this is still a point of immense local pride. Ernst chose the forested hill dominating the centre of the town as the site of his palace, Schloss Friedenstein. The palace and hill, its gardens, forested slopes and lawns full of romantic walking paths, is now the jewel in Gotha’s crown. A stretch of cascading fountains link it to the town’s two adjoining market squares below.

The first of our two days in Gotha was spent wandering around the palace with its many art treasures, and exploring the paths of its park-like, picnic-perfect setting. The Museum of Natural History was added to the palace grounds in the 1800s, with excellent exhibitions on the natural history of the area as well as educational displays about endangered species and nature conservation.

Another day was spent investigating Gotha’s two market squares, including the massive Rathaus (town hall) built in 1574, the sweeping Margarethenkirche (Margaret’s church), and a wide variety of shops. Much to our surprise, Gotha’s shopping was distinctly better in terms of selection and lower prices than most other German towns we visited, east or west. But above all, it was Gotha’s Baroque atmosphere - the 17thcentury elegance and ornamentation without the gaudiness that often characterizes the era - which we found to be truly unique in Gotha.

Getting There - Tangermunde

From Berlin take the B1 west to Genthin, then the B107 north to Fischbeck, then west on the B188. About a one-hour drive from the outskirts of Berlin. By train, the nearest station is at Stendal, about 10 kilometers away.

Tourist Information Centre: Marktstrasse 1339590 TangermundeTel: 039322-3710

Day-cruises on the Elbe: Trip lengths vary, prices average at DM5.- per hour. Enquire at Tourist Information Centre.

Bicycle Rental: Karl-Heinz Bergande Langestrasse 38 39590 Tangermunde Tel: 039322-2343 About DM10.- per day.

Recommended Accommodation and Restaurant: Hotel Schwartzen Adler, Langestrasse 52 39590 Tangermunde Tel: 039322-2391 A first class hotel and restaurant with double rooms from DM140.-

Getting there - Gotha

Gotha is located about halfway between Erfurt and Eisenach, just off the A4 (autobahn), north on the B247. It can also be reached by driving the B7 between Erfurt and Eisenach. There is a train station at Gotha.

Tourist Information Centre: “Gotha-Information”Blumenstrasse 1-399867 Gotha Tel: 03621-54036

Recommended B&B Accommodation: Pension Am Schloss Bergallee 3a 99867 Gotha, Tel: 03621-853206 Proprietor: Mrs. Helga Thiel - a gracious hostess who is very knowledgeable about the area and happy to provide advice. Double room B&B in her elegantly restored turn-of-the-century home is DM70.- per night, DM90.- with private hash. Excellent value.

Recommended cafe: Cafe Loesche on Hunersdorfstrasse, one of the small alleys linking the two marketplaces. Cafe Loesche serves delicious cakes, coffees, and ice creams in an chic baroque setting. Cakes are DM3.- to DM4.-. coffee DM2.30.

Attractions nearby:

• Eisenach, with its magnificent Wartburg Castle and starting point of numerous hiking trails into the Thuringan Forest.
• Erfurt, known as the “city of flowers and towers.”
• Boxberg, Germany’s oldest horse racing track. Bach House in Wechmar and the Museum of Thuringan Musicians.
• The Thuringan Forest Tramway, which takes visitors to nearby mountain health resorts.
• Schloss (palace) Reinhardsbrunn, former hunting lodge of the Dukes of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha.

Author: Carmen Kurtz Merrells