Krakow, Poland in Wintertime
Value increases as the temperature drops
It was snowing lightly when my husband and I arrived in Krakow, Poland. Although we like to travel off-season, I wondered if maybe January was pushing it just a little.
Krakow, according to my research, offered many interesting sights that did not require warmth or sunshine, making it a logical winter destination. There would be no colorful umbrellas shading outdoor cafe tables, as pictured in the brochures, but neither would there be hordes of tourists, clogging up museums and restaurants. I unpacked my mittens, earmuffs, and thermals, and hoped for the best.
Krakow miraculously escaped destruction during both World Wars, and as we stood in the main square of the Stare Miasto (old town), wind and snowflakes swirling around us in the large open space, I marveled at the medieval structures that surrounded us. The rectangular thickness of the Cloth Hall dominates the center of the square.
Standing before it, on this day modeling seasonal winter whites, is a statue of Poland’s national poet. The Church of St. Mary stands facing into the square at a quirky angle. I felt miniscule and temporary, and yes, a bit chilly.
The adventure of exploring the ancient cobble-stoned streets was heightened by the fact that we had the city to ourselves. There were no tourists, and the locals went about their business, no more apt to visit the tourist spots than a New Yorker would be found at the Statue of Liberty on any given weekday.
The main sights of Krakow are within easy walking distance of one another, including Wawel Cathedral and the Royal Castle. Most of the museums were heated, and all the shops and restaurants were open, making it easy to keep warm. If you have ever entered a large old church in the summer you may remember the refreshing coolness created by the stone walls. Unfortunately, the same concept holds true in winter. Wawel Cathedral and the other churches we visited were noticeably colder inside than the already bitter temperature outside.
My favorite warming hut was the Jama Michalikowa, a café that was established over 100 years ago on Florianska Street. We shared the entire café with only a few other people, although my guidebook had cautioned that during high season one might wait for over an hour to be seated. The plush and velvety interior is filled with antique furnishings and an air of decadence. We sat for quite some time, enjoying the sumptuous surroundings, hot coffee, and rich pastries. To be honest, I think we spent more time in restaurants than we did sightseeing.
When finally we forced ourselves out of the trance-inducing Jama Michalikowa, we followed the ancient street to the Florian Gate, a remnant of the fortifications that once protected the city of Krakow. An optimistic artist had hung his paintings on the massive wall, their colorful scenes in stark contrast with the gray afternoon. “English? Hey! Look! Good price,” he called out to us.
As the only potential customers within a ten-mile (or kilometer) radius, we felt it necessary to support this entrepreneurial spirit. For ten dollars, we purchased a watercolor depicting Florianska Street.
While hotels are not as cheap as they once were in Eastern European countries, they are still a bargain. Most of the hotels located in the concentrated area of the old town are converted residences, so the room sizes often vary while the price does not. Always request a large room with a bathtub. Many lack elevators and air conditioning due to zoning laws preserving historic buildings. If traveling in the summer, be aware that the air-conditioning advertised may be small, portable floor units.
The restaurants in Krakow are a great value. Particularly wonderful was our dinner at Cherubino - best gnocchi I’ve ever had. Another evening we ate while listening to Klezmer music in the old Jewish quarter of Kazimierz.
The Wieliczka Salt Mine exceeded my expectations. The mine is a thirty-minute drive from Krakow and a perfect option on a rainy day. The tour begins as a dark and cramped elevator plunges you deep into the earth - think Disney’s Tower of Terror. A guide then escorts visitors through a labyrinth of tunnels and staircases one and a half miles long. This is an eerie, bizarre underground world complete with a reflecting pool, hundreds of salt sculptures, and an enormous chapel. What makes it truly amazing is that all the sculpture, some of it carved hundreds of years ago, is the work of self-taught miners.
After hours of trekking through the dimly lit mine, we were happy to find the Karczma Halit Restaurant, an unassuming log cabin located directly across the street. We enjoyed some delicious soup and perogies while my husband I sat with the owners, watching ski races on a rabbit-eared television set. The common language of sports made for an instant bond, high fives and smiles making spoken words unnecessary.
Auschwitz and Birkenau lie 30 miles from Krakow. The choice to visit these infamous death camps is obviously a very personal one. The museum presents itself in a factual, almost business-like manner. I cannot imagine visiting this emotional place on a crowded day. My mind was unable to absorb the brutality of some of the exhibits, and months later, I find myself still sorting through the experience.
On our last evening in Krakow, my husband and I huddled under an umbrella in the Stare Miasto, waiting for the hourly trumpet call from the highest tower of St. Mary’s. The call cuts off abruptly, unfinished, a memorial to the medieval trumpeter who was shot in the midst of sounding the alarm. Appropriate, considering Poland’s history.
I expected this trip to be educational, which it was. However, thesolitude of the city, cuddling to keep warm, and watching the snow fall while sipping a glassof red wine all conspired to make this a surprisingly romantic vacation. It is a time ofyear that the city is intimate and heavy, and I felt that winter had allowed us Krakow’sundivided attention.
Author: Wendy Christ
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