The London taxi makes a U-turn on Brompton Road and decants me at one of Harrods’ many entrances. As I join the queue of eager shoppers, I remember my first pilgrimage to Harrods in 1975 during a backpacking trip through Europe. The store has been through a metamorphosis since then, partly in thanks to its present owner and Chairman, Mohamed Al Fayed. Mr. Al Fayed purchased the store in 1985 and has given it his own personal Egyptian Midas touch. Grab your bag (and credit cards) and join me for a day inside one of London’s top three attractions.
It is almost 10:00 a.m. and Harrods’ 4,000+ employees lie in wait to cater to the whims and fancies of the rich, the famous, and the cognoscenti. I check my watch to ensure I will be among the first of thousands of customers (up to 300,000 on certain days) to pass through the doors. I inch my way forward in preparation for the opening. My appointment at the Hair and Beauty Salon has been made weeks in advance. The elevator whisks me up to the fifth floor. Reminiscences of past massages and facials motivate me to scurry past elegant displays that I will investigate in depth after my spa morning.
Harrods’ Hair and Beauty offers complete spa services including massages, facials, reflexology and aromatherapy. I opt for a one hour aromatherapy massage. The Europeans consider aromatherapy a science and I am asked to complete a medical questionnaire, followed by a ½ hour consultation with an aromatherapist. The essential oils permeate the room and help to relax and rejuvenate this jet-lagged body. A facial and visit to the hair salon complete my spa experience.
After three hours of pampering, I feel a little peckish. Pacing oneself is important on a day like today. A cornucopia of delicacies awaits me in no less than 22 restaurants.
I choose to lunch in the Terrace Bar, located in a conservatory on the fourth floor. The menu is continental and the servers represent many of the EU countries. I am led to a table near the window with a view over London’s rooftops. I imagine myself as a member of the “Ladies Who Lunch” set. Afterwards, I pay a visit to the nearby opulent pay washroom to indulge myself in the rows of perfumes and hand lotions available to patrons. Keep your restaurant receipt or you will have to pay £1 for this privilege.
Habits are hard to break, and a browse through the thousands of publications in Harrods’ book department is always on my must-do list. The department is one of Waterstones’ (the U.K.’s leading specialist bookseller) premier outlets. Apart from the full complement of book categories, the department has a special Royalty section where you can find works about the English and European monarchies. The display of over 500 magazines is worth more than a fleeting glance.
Tea Time. The Art Nouveau Georgian Restaurant is the grande dame of Harrods’ eateries. Since Edwardian times, traditional afternoon tea has been served in this ornate dining room. When the three-tier silver stand of mini sandwiches, dainty cakes and scones with preserves and clotted cream arrive, I am thankful I declined dessert at the Terrace Bar.
The jewel in Harrods’ crown is the Food Halls, and food is at the very heart of Harrods’ existence. Several connecting rooms offer a myriad of comestibles for the most discriminating palates. Small packages start to pile up in my carry-all bag as my nose leads me from room to room, through the bakery with over 150 varieties of bread, past hand-dipped chocolates and into the cavernous coffee and tea room.
Say cheese. The staff in the cheese department is extremely knowledgeable about the 350 varieties available. My favorite is the fresh Buffalo mozzarella, flown in twice a week from Naples. Add a few slices of tomatoes, a sprig or two of fresh basil et voila. If you would like to sample any of the hundreds of cheeses, you can do so at Bar Fromage located nearby. Round out your selection with a glass of wine or port and you will say “viva la fromage”.
My last stop is at the memorial that Mohamed Al Fayed has created to Diana, Princess of Wales and his son, Dodi. It is located on the lower ground floor at the base of the Egyptian escalator. Visitors can view a wine glass that has been preserved in the exact condition as it was when the couple dined in the Imperial Suite at the Ritz Hotel in Paris. Also on display is the engagement ring bought by Dodi just before the tragedy.
It’s nearly 7:00 p.m., and before I say au revoir to Harrods I make a quick detour to pick up my tickets for the West End theatre. I exit the store through the Brompton Road doors to a row of waiting London taxis. My last thought as I try to manoeuve my numerous green bags through the taxi door is that Harrods really is, “All things for all people, everywhere.”
Author: Genevieve Troka
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