Lago di Como Serves up la Dolce Vita

Stunning vistas and a slower pace

Less than an hour north of the bustle of Milan, Italy’s Lago di Como is a world away when it comes to providing a setting for travelers to unwind and enjoy stunning vistas and a slower pace.

Not a breath of wind ruffles the mirror calm of the lake. Gauzy haze hangs low over distant hills like a curtain. The morning sun is warm and birdsong echoes across the water.

Our ferry is a speck on the horizon. We can relish a while longer this slice of la dolce vita , the sweet life.

To encourage our lingering, the breakfast hostess brings a fresh pot of tea and a plate of pastries. We’re on the lakeside terrace of the Hotel du Lac in Varenna, on the eastern shore of Lake Como in northern Italy.

It is less than an hour north of Milan by train, yet light years distant in peacefulness. Although many buildings in town are painted the ochres and yellows of the Mediterranean, the Swiss Alps are just at the north end of the lake.

With its warm microclimate and small village feel, Varenna is an ideal base for exploring the area.

Frequent car and passenger ferry service links Varenna with towns up and down the lake. In most places, ferries dock near the town centers so we won’t need a car for our explorations.

Having torn ourselves from our breakfast view, we hop on a boat bound for Bellagio, at the center of the lake. We stroll along the busy waterfront toward the fine views at the end of the promontory that divides two arms of Lake Como. Zigzagging along narrow stone stairways that link the waterfront with the upper shopping streets gives a workout and a fine overview of the many storefronts.

Bellagio is much bigger and busier than Varenna. It has more restaurants and definitely is a shopping Mecca. Look for the best of Made in Italy leather, ceramic, wood, cashmere, and silk. Como, just down the lake, is a center for the Italian silk industry. Having walked all the contradas, we sit outside a stone church whose steeple is visible from the ferry.

We indulge in our daily gelato and people watch. Life in the square unfolds languidly – a woman deadheads flowers on her balcony, tourists wander into the church, locals run errands. When it’s time to catch the boat, we stroll downhill to the flower-lined waterfront.

Back in Varenna, we walk to our hotel along the delightful lakeside walkway.

The main road to Milan runs above the town, so there is no traffic disrupting pedestrians at the lakeshore. The walkway runs below a villa whose stone walls are crowned with pots of pink geraniums. It passes a small marina, a handful of shops and restaurants, the gelateria, and the harbor.

Although it’s not more than a 15-minute stroll, we sometimes take hours. We have a meal or snack on bruschetta at one of the harbor front restaurants. There are ducks to feed, or fishermen to watch. Deciding among the luscious flavors of the homemade gelato at the gelateria takes time, too. Life’s pace is slow here; if you’re wanting nightlife, best stay elsewhere.

The wealthy of the 18th century sought the peacefulness of the lake and built many grand villas on its shores. One such home, not far from the center of Varenna, is Villa Monastero.

The museum-quality interiors are closed on the day of our visit, so we content ourselves wandering through the lakefront gardens. Shrubs and trees, from the unique to the familiar, shade paths lined with flowers. Pink blossoms tumble over stone pots on walls and balconies, framing views of the lake.

Springtime would be ideal for visiting not only this, but many of the lake’s villas, to see the abundant azaleas and rhododendrons at their best.

For a change from the carefully planned plantings of the Villa, we hike through the dark forests above the town to the ruins of the medieval Castello di Vezio. Its remaining stone walls and a tall tower perch on a hundred-metre cliffside.

The climb to the top of the tower isn’t hard and we’re rewarded with views of the town, the shimmering lake, and the Swiss Alps in the distance. Classic Italian cypress trees spike the steep hillsides. Our descent follows a narrow path lined with silvery olive trees whose leaves rustle dryly in the breeze.

Overnight, the breeze clears the haze and the sunny morning calls for another ferry ride on the lake. Sitting at the back of the boat, we take in the Alps ringing the lake’s end, the high, green mountains on either side, and the small white church high above Griante Cadnabbia.

Lakeside villas, such as Villa Carlotta, were meant to be approached from the water and look most impressive from the base of their water steps. We hop off at Mennagio for a lakeside lunch and a stroll along the promenade before sailing back to Varenna.

Back at the hotel, the greenery bedecked terrace bar beckons. From our lakeside table, we toast the sunset with glasses of prosecco and savor yet another moment of la dolce vita on Lago di Como.

Author: Karoline Cullen and Gary Cullen