History of Quebec City
A cure for those history and culture blues
Do you have the history and culture blues? Would you like to experience some old European atmosphere? Do you want your Canadian five dollar bill to buy you more than a cup of coffee? With a visible and very significant history that goes back nearly 400 years, Quebec City offers you the opportunity to do all this and not break the bank.
Coming from the Algonquin word, Kebec, meaning “where the river narrows”, Quebec City is the site of a First Nations heritage that is thousands of years old. European influence began in 1608 when Samuel de Champlain established the first permanent French settlement in North America. Over the next 150 years it became a major battleground in the fight between England and France for control of the new land. Finally, in 1759, the city fell into English hands after the pivotal Battle of the Plains of Abraham. After an attempted American invasion in 1775, the British completed the walls and fortifications begun by the French, which would give the city its unique character today. In 1867, Quebec City became capital of the province of Quebec as it entered Confederation.
That, in capsule form, is the story that seemed to take centuries for many of us to learn in school. The details get fuzzy over time and few of us paid that much attention in the first place. But walking around Quebec is another story. The musty old history lessons come alive as abstract words in a book are replaced by real buildings and streets that transport us to a different era.
In recognition of its cultural and historical significance, Old Quebec was placed on UNESCO’s World Heritage List in 1985. It is the only North American urban site to earn this honor. Also, of the entire province’s ten classified historical districts, five are located in the greater Quebec City area.
From any of the tourist information offices, you can get a free tourist map and guide which contain excellent self-guided walking tours. Also available are guide-led walking tours, or if you prefer to be carried, horse-and-carriage, bus and river-boat tours.
A good place to begin your adventure is at the Chateau Frontenac, the most recognizable landmark in Old Quebec. Built in 1893, it’s the most photographed hotel in the world. Its location on Cape Diamond commands a beautiful view of the St Lawrence River with the town of Levis on the opposite bank and L’Ile d’Orleans to the southeast. The Chateau is a good point of reference as it is at the centre of many of Old Quebec’s historical sites.
Across the street is the Musee du Fort which features a huge model of Quebec as it appeared in the 1740s, and a twenty-five-minute sound and light show of the battle of the Plains of Abraham and the five other sieges of the city.
With this historical perspective, it’s a good time to stroll west from the Chateau along Dufferin Terrace, a 200-foot-high boardwalk from which you can watch the river activity and be entertained by wandering minstrels and performance artists. The Terrace connects to The Governors’ Walk which takes you directly to the Citadel and National Battlefields Park on which the Battle of the Plains of Abraham was fought.
Plan to spend at least a day here. The Citadel is the largest military fortification in North America still garrisoned by regular troops—the Royal 22ndRegiment, more popularly known as the Van Doos. It was built by the Royal Engineers between 1820 and 1832 on the site of the original French defenses. The facility offers guided tours as well as the traditional Changing of the Guard and Beating of Retreat. The Royal 22ndRegiment Museum has a collection of military memorabilia from the 17thcentury to the present.
Located next to the Citadel, Battlefields Park contains over 250 acres of forest and gardens as well as monuments, military hardware and interpretation centers. It’s a good place for picnics, walks and other outdoor activities while soaking up the history. At the centre of the park, the Wolfe monument marks the spot where General Wolfe died on that fateful day in 1759.
There’s more to the Old City than military history. Nearby is the Quebec Museum which houses the most significant permanent collection of Quebec art from the earliest days of the colony to the present.
Continuing the cultural theme, it’s best to just wander the streets of Old Quebec for galleries and museums that grab your interest. Rue du Tresor is a block from the Chateau Frontenac. Early colonists paid their taxes here, hence the name, Treasury Street. Now, local artists display their work along this narrow alley and have turned it into a huge outdoor gallery.
The Augustine Museum is located in the monastery of the Augustinian Sisters who founded the adjacent Hotel-Dieu Hospital in 1639. It displays art and household items dating back to the 1600s. Of particular interest is a room containing old medical equipment which confirms the suspicion that you really didn’t want to be sick in the 17thcentury. Tours can be taken of the church built in 1803 and the monastery vaults built in 1695.
The churches rival many of the cathedrals of Europe. Notre-Dame Basilica traces its history back to a chapel built by Champlain in 1633. Destroyed by fire and rebuilt several times, it became a cathedral in 1674 and was elevated to basilica status in 1874. The Cathedral of the Holy Trinity dates to 1793 and is the oldest Anglican cathedral outside of the British Isles. It is a replica of St. Martin’s-in-the-Field in London and contains many objects donated by King George III. Its pews are constructed of oak from the Royal Windsor Forest and in the balcony is a Royal Pew which may only be occupied by members of the Royal Family or their representatives.
Beside the Chateau is an elevator-like conveyance which travels diagonally down a ramp along the Cape Diamond cliffs. This takes you to the Lower Town, site of the original settlement on the banks of the St. Lawrence River. When you exit the elevator ramp, just outside the door, is the Petit Champlain District, the oldest commercial area in North America. A couple of blocks to the east is Place Royale. This is the area where Champlain built his first house in 1608. Lower Town also has a variety of galleries, museums and churches to be explored.
For those with a limited capacity for history and culture, Old Quebec has a variety of other attractions, such as boutiques, craft shops, sidewalk cafes and fine restaurants.
A word about transportation—walk. If you’re staying within the walls of the Old City, most destinations are within a 30-minute stroll. You’re better off without a car in Old Quebec. Narrow, unfamiliar streets and many tourists generally result in frazzled nerves. If you’re staying outside the walls, take the bus into the Old Town and walk from there.
Language? Pas de probleme. Broken French/English is spoken here and people are very friendly. Dusting off a few phrases from high school is appreciated, and when your accent gives you away immediately, the transition to English is usually smooth.
If you want a cure for those history and culture blues, Quebec City may be the ticket. It’s the most European city you’ll find outside of Europe, and best of all, the Canadian dollar is the currency of choice.
If you got to Quebec City
Tourism Quebec operates a toll free number Monday through Friday from 9 am to 5 pm. at 1 800 363-7777.
Author: Jeff Lukovich
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