Quebec Winter Carnival | Quebec City, Canada

North America Canada Eastern Canada

Celebrating the weather the rest of the country was wishing away

When winter’s icy grip lays over the land, Canadians take one of three approaches. Some grab their skates, skis, snowboards, snowmobiles or curling brooms and welcome the chill. Others head to warmer climes to soak up some warmth on a foreign beach. And the rest go into semi hibernation, trying to escape the cold in front of a crackling fire

My wife and I went to Quebec City in the middle of winter however, and found a dramatic change in attitude. Here, it seemed the entire city was out celebrating the weather the rest of the country was wishing away. With a wide variety of activities for young and old, competitions and vibrant street parades, the frosty air became a minor inconvenience as the crowds focused on the revelry at hand.

The first winter carnival was organized in 1894 and occurred sporadically over the next 60 years. Since 1955 it has become an annual affair. The coming millennium edition running from January 28 to February 13, 2000 will mark the 46th anniversary of the event. It has become the world’s biggest winter celebration and third largest carnival after those in Rio de Janeiro and New Orleans.

The setting certainly helps. In recognition of its cultural and historical significance, Old Quebec is the only North American urban site to be placed on UNESCO’s World Heritage List. Strolling the narrow cobble-stone streets lit by Victorian lamps and lined with 17th century buildings we felt transported into a Charles Dickens novel.

When we were done time-traveling, over 60 ongoing activities invited our participation. Most of the activities were located in two sites within an easy stroll of each other.

Place Desjardins on the historic Plains of Abraham had a rock climbing mountain constructed of ice, a snow board park, snow “rafting” and dogsled races. At a sugar shack, we sampled authentic maple syrup and snow-hardened maple toffee. We followed this up with a stroll through a centre for performing arts. An igloo village gave an insight into how northern aboriginal people keep warm during the winter months.

If you want a unique lodging experience, you can rent an igloo to sleep in for the night. In the late afternoon dusk, we climbed aboard a horse-drawn sleigh and cozied up under thick fur blankets. With the gently falling snow partially obscuring our vision as we skimmed through the park, I was sure I heard the strains of “Lara’s Theme” from Dr. Zhivago wafting through the crisp air. Maybe it was the wind.

We wandered over to the Place du Palais across from the Quebec Parliament Building. Here was Bonhomme’s glistening ice palace. Bonhomme is the talking, laughing and dancing snowman who has become the symbol of the Carnival and makes appearances at the celebrations and activities. Colored lights shone through the ice walls of the palace. It’s the site of a variety of laser light and sound shows, musical acts, and the fireworks enhanced festivities of the opening and closing ceremonies.

Between Place Desjardins and Place du Palais was the site of the International Snow Sculpture Competition. Last year, artisans from nineteen countries took part in the International category. There are also Quebec and Canada categories. Two nights of the festival are called the Night of the Long Knives, when the sculptors can be seen working through the night to complete their dazzling creations.

Not to be missed are the parades. Thousands turn out to watch the marching bands, clowns and elaborate floats during the over two-hour evening spectacle. It’s a family event that attracts delighted spectators ranging from babes-in-arms to senior citizens. An aid to good cheer and also useful in dispelling the chill was “caribou”, a mellow-tasting, but potent concoction of red wine, white rum and maple syrup.

Unique sporting competitions test strength, stamina and ingenuity. At the International Canoe Race, teams from around the world alternate between paddling, dragging and pushing their canoes over the mostly frozen St. Lawrence River between Quebec City and Levis. They battle ice floes, treacherous currents and arctic temperatures. The Provincial Dogsled Racing Championship is held in the streets of Old Quebec. There is a Soapbox Derby and a Car Race on Ice.

The Quebec Winter Carnival is a reminder that the cold dark days of winter can be as bright and warm as we choose to make them.

Travel Planner to Quebec Carnival

Tourism Quebec, Tel: 1-800-363-7777 (toll-free within North America), Internet: www.tourisme.gouv.qc.ca.

For specific information on the Quebec area -

Greater Quebec Area and Tourism and Convention Bureau

835, avenue Wilfrid Laurier,Quebec, Canada, G1R 2L3,Tel: 1-418-649-2608, Internet: www.quebecregion.com.Toll free reservations Tel: 1-888-737-3789

Carnival Internet: www.carnaval.qc.ca

Author: Jeff Lukovich