Albert Bay

Alert Bay is a 40-minute ferry ride from Port McNeill,and home to some 1,600 residents

The bald eagle chattered at me from the top of the world’s tallest totem pole. The raptor’s choice of perch was considered by many in Alert Bay to be a benediction, and so I welcomed its greeting as a manifestation of my good fortune.

A fishing village on Cormorant Island, Alert Bay is a 40-minute ferry ride from Port McNeill, and home to some 1,600 residents, the majority of whom are members of the ‘Namgis First Nation. Named after the British warships H.M.S. Alert and H.M.S. Cormorant, both stationed off BC’s northwest coast from 1846-1861, the island was used by the ‘Namgis people as a winter home for several thousand years before the first European set foot on the West Coast.

I instantly fell in love with the island’s natural beauty and the deep-rooted history it quietly guards. I was welcomed by its gracious inhabitants who smiled warmly at my delight in discovering this relatively unknown sanctuary.

Alert Bay is rich is native art and culture. At every turn is a reminder of a proud heritage that was almost lost to the ignorance of the outside world. Fortunately, due to the devotion of the elders and dedicated younger generations, the language, ceremonies, dances and history of the Kwakwaka’wakw-speaking people is being preserved so that the proud traditions will live on.

What to see.

Among the beautiful and diverse totem poles dotting the island is the world’s tallest, from where my eagle friend kept watch. Carved in 1971 by a group of native artists, it features 14 figures topped by a large, intricate sun design. At 173 feet, this impressive work of art towers over the pride of Alert Bay, the newly constructed Big House, whose predecessor fell prey to an arsonist in 1997.

Tours of the Big House, including demonstrations of native dancing, can be arranged through the U’Mista Cultural Centre, which contains a wealth of information on the history, traditions and native art of Alert Bay.

Some of the most beautiful artifacts are part of the Potlatch collection, which includes masks and regalia. Many of these pieces were confiscated by the Canadian government in 1921 as part of its campaign to ban potlatches, which the Roman Catholic Church considered as pagan rituals.

Due to the diligent endeavors of the centre’s curators, some of these relics have been returned to their rightful home. Efforts are still underway to bring the rest of these pieces back from around the world, where our government had sold them.

A quiet awe enveloped me as I viewed the Nimpkish Burial Grounds and Memorial Totems. Over the centuries, the families of Cormorant Island have been honored and ceremoniously laid to rest here. Out of respect for the ancestors and the Nimpkish Band, visitors are asked not to trespass on the burial grounds. The memorial totems can easily be seen from the road.

One of the more unusual attractions to beckon visitors is a swampy ecological park called Ecological Park. The bog doesn’t actually harbor any alligators, instead deriving its name from the Everglades-like moss-draped pines and bayous. A 700-foot trail snakes its way through this exceptional park, where a plank boardwalk over the water offers the best view of the immense wealth of bird and plant life.

What impressed me most about my explorations was the profusion of wildflowers growing in abandon on every conceivable patch of ground, splashing the countryside in purple and orange.

Shopping Bringing back a little piece of Alert Bay’s native culture is easy to do. There are carvings and jewelry for sale at little shops that, while hard to find, are well worth the time spent sleuthing. These special gifts are also available in private homes throughout the island, as well as at the Cultural Centre.

Having a ‘whale’ of a good time Dubbed “Home of the Killer Whale,” Alert Bay is a 30-minute boat ride from the world-famous ‘rubbing beaches’ of Robson Bight Ecological Reserve for the Orca. Adventurous souls can take guided tours in kayaks, while the more timid can opt for the conventional whale watching charters aboard one of the many local touring vessels.

A renowned destination for sport fishing, Alert Bay is strategically situated at the north end of Johnstone Strait, and claims to have some of the best salt-water fishing in BC Many old-time fishermen will be happy to take a group out for a day, and regale you with fish stories. Some of them might even be true.

Getting There

• Take the ferry from Tsawwassen to Nanaimo,
• Drive north on Highway 19 to Port McNeill.
• From there, the Tri-Island ferry runs to Alert Bay and Sointula continuously from 8:40 a.m. to 9:50 p.m., seven days a week.

Hang Your Hat

Visitors can choose from

• Three hotels
• Three bed-and-breakfasts
• Two campgrounds, and rental cabins.

I opted to stay at Barb’s Bed and Breakfast, run by Barbara and John Rowell. Well-maintained, it features a full English breakfast, and a picture window that frames some of the most breathtaking sunsets imaginable.

The Rowells can be contacted viaE-mail: (jrowell@island.net)Or by calling (250) 974-5715.

Dining Out

A visit to the tiny island would not be complete without at least one meal at Isola Bella Italian Restaurant. Host Guido Morelli (Guido no long resides in Alert Bay) provides a superb cuisine, as well as a magnificent view, making dining a delightful denouement to the day.

For more information on Cormorant Island and Alert Bay,Contact the Alert Bay Info Centre at (250) 974-5024,Or info@village.alertbay.bc.ca.

Author: Heather Beaton