Royal Hudson Steam Train - Steaming in Style to Squamish
Travel first class on the celebrated Royal Hudson Steam Train
An abysmal day: the sky a slab of grey, and needles of rain blowing across the car windshield. But it will take more than Vancouver’s capricious weather to dampen my anticipation of the trip ahead
As a kid in India, where my father was a railway-man, the plaintive whistle of a train, the clatter of wheels on the track, the smell of coal-dust from the old steam locomotives, and the ever-changing scene beyond the window, was as much a part of my life as a trip by plane or camper-van is to a youngster in North America today.
But oh, so much more romantic.
Today, bleak skies notwithstanding, I am looking forward to traveling on Vancouver’s celebrated Royal Hudson Steam Train to Squamish. However, like a few others on the trip I am sorry to learn that its famous steam engine, the Royal Hudson 2860 is in the sick bay undergoing major transplant surgery, and will not be back in harness for a good few months.
No matter. Although less glamorous than the old Queen of steam, we are being drawn by another classic locomotive, circa 1952. She is CPR #4069 (a diesel engine) and, with her original burgundy and silver-grey exterior, she is an elegant substitute. No less elegant is the Parlor Class Dining Room with its petit-point upholstered seats, crisp white table-linen, crystal, china and silver-ware.
A couple of moments after I settle into my seat, we’re off-gliding past Ambleside Beach, past houses with neatly tended gardens-and then winding along the coastline through Howe Sound. On a sunny day the unfolding vistas of water, sky and mountains en-route to Squamish, is nothing short of spectacular. Today, it is a Toni Onley watercolor: a pastiche of muted hues, the water a sheen of rippled silver in the pale sunlight, and the smudged outlines of the Gulf Islands, brooding olive green, against a charcoal sky.
As we sip a chilled blend of fresh strawberry and grapefruit juice and nibble on a selection of freshly-baked croissants, Danish pastries and scones, we dive into a tunnel at Horseshoe Bay and emerge to pass Porteau Cove, where a group of scuba divers are poised to explore sunken ships off the coast. Further along we glimpse the historic Britannia Beach Copper Mine, and I make a mental note to visit the Mining Museum in the not too distant future.
But today belongs solely to the delights of rail travel-its culture and history. The West Coast Railway Heritage Park at Squamish, despite the soggy gravel pathways, is thronged with enthusiasts climbing in and out of vintage ‘black beauties’. Round-eyed kids, stand in a caboose, imagining the thrill of seeing the tracks winding away to the horizon as the train rushes forward. Others go ‘wow’ as they clamber aboard the Great Northern 182 locomotive.
Among the 60 railcars on site, some were used to transport settlers to Western Canada, while others carried troops during both World Wars. I linger in a refurbished car with gleaming solid brass fittings, and mahogany paneling polished to a high gloss and browse through the Cowichan River Car, a museum of artifacts, model locomotives, photographs and memorabilia dating back to the turn of the century and the gold-rush era.
There is a buzz of excitement as the Town Centre inaugural festivities gather momentum at the “new” Squamish station within the Heritage Park. Although the architectural plans for the building were originally drawn up in 1915, it was never completed; today, it provides space for a gift shop, education room, library and archives. The ribbon cutting ceremony is under way to the cheers of the audience and, with a lively band in attendance, we are treated to a slice of celebratory cake.
The rain is now pelting down in earnest, and I reluctantly leave the Railway Heritage Park in time to re-board the Royal Hudson train for the return trip to Vancouver.
However, there is still one more treat to savor-literally. Lunch. A wedge of delectable fresh salmon with green peppercorn and lemon butter, a serving of grilled chicken breast on a bed of pasta accompanied by asparagus and leeks; then the piece-de-resistance, a white and dark chocolate pate smothered in raspberry sauce and whipped cream. Chef David Peake, a culinary wizard, gets a huge round of applause from us enthusiastic diners.
As we draw into North Vancouver, the skies clear and brilliant sunshine floods the station platform.
If you go:
Getting There:
The legendary Royal Hudson Steam Train operates between Wednesday through Sunday, from May to September and departs for Squamish and the West Coast Railway Heritage Park from the BC Rail Station located at 1311-1st Street, North Vancouver.
Other Trips:
BC Rail operates winter Rail tours to the Rockies, the Cariboo and Whistler. In addition their Pacific Starlight Dinner train features “Murder Mystery” evenings, “Bard on Board” and Christmas/New Year excursions. The Whistler Explorer runs from May-October and the Cariboo Prospector is an all-season treat. Commencing May 6, 2001, the new Whistler Northwind will begin its first operating season with three day excursions to Prince George and overnight stays in Whistler and 100-Mile House.
Information:
For reservations and information on departure timings and fares, call BC Rail at 1-800-663-8238 or (604) 984-5246.
Their website is: www.bcrproperties.com/bcrco/index.html
E-mail contact: pass_info@bcrail.com
Author: Margaret Deefholts
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