Steveston British Columbia - Day Trip to BC’s Steveston Village

Cigars, spas and serendipity

It has been an unusual day. I’ve replenished body, mind and spirit, having done five things I’ve never done before. As a bonus, I’ve spent the entire time in one of my favorite places in Greater Vancouver: Steveston.

The village, a suburb of Richmond, on Canada’s West Coast, has drawn me back time and again. I’ve explored its shops, cafes, parks, and surrounding waters. I’ve listened to tales about the lives of its people—fishermen, dockyard hands, and the men and women who once worked in the canneries.

Although the fishing industry has fallen on difficult times, Steveston continues to be Canada’s largest commercial fishing harbor.

Despite the presence of boat storage marinas and industrial docks, the village retains the folksy charm of a fishing community, where seasonal catches of bass, cod, halibut and salmon, are offered for sale at the waterfront.

Streets are flanked by boutiques, craft and gift shops, and one perk is chatting with store owners about their products.

At Robusto—Premium Cigars and Coffee, owner Tom Orange talks about the cigar industry. Contrary to what I believed, Cuba is not the world’s largest producer of cigars; that distinction belongs to the Dominican Republic. Nor are cigars the sole preserve of macho males—Tom assures me, his customers include several women aficionados.

And what sort of cigars do they usually select? A popular choice is a Torano product called Sweet Nostalgia.

Tom clips one end, chars the other, and lighting it, hands over the slim, pale brown cigar.

“Don’t inhale,” he cautions, “This isn’t a cigarette. Just swirl the smoke gently through your throat and nostrils.”

Sweet Nostalgia tastes like sugared cinnamon, (the tips are soaked in sugarcane juice as part of the manufacturing) but the tobacco aroma is rich and full-bodied.

Raintree Day Spa, a few paces from Robusto, is next on my list. I’ve never been to anything as sophisticated as a spa, and while I’m curious about Swedish massages, Shiatsu and La Stone therapy, I’m a bit skittish. My idea of pampering is to immerse in one of those rather cloying perfumed bath crystals displayed on hotel vanity counters.

An hour later I feel as sensuous and slinky as Cleopatra emerging from her bath. I have been treated to a full-body aromatherapy exfoliation accompanied by a Vichy rain shower massage, and rubbed all over with a Shea butter moisturizer. While their Fountain of Youth facial would, in my case, be wishful thinking, I’ll be back for an aromatherapy pedicure.

I saunter along the waterfront and contemplate the dove-grey sky and wind-rippled waters of the Fraser River. In the summer the colors are strong and vibrant; today in early December, the near-deserted boardwalk and pale afternoon light lends the scene a gentle melancholy.

The outdoor world is somber, but the walls of Steveston Village Gallery are a riot of color—displaying abstract paintings in cobalt, purple and scarlet. I linger, marveling at a translucent porcelain bowl which glows as if lit by embers from within.

As part of their mission to encourage local talent, the gallery runs a series of art classes, and owner/artist Tamaka Fisher urges me to “awaken my dormant creativity” by trying my hand at painting a small square of canvas. I swirl a brush in emerald acrylic, and take a shot at producing a Christmas tree. Tamaka maintains tactful silence, but it’s evident the artist within me is in deep hibernation. It’s time to move on.

Into the realm of the soul. At Serendipity’s Backyard, shelves are stacked with books on yoga, meditation, inspirational healing and spiritual guidance. I peer at CDs of Indian ragas, at shimmering crystals, sacred rocks and other aids to heightened awareness. The owners, Shannon Sorensen and Deb McDonald offer me a Taro card reading.

I shake my head ruefully at the results, but perk up when Shannon gives me a lesson in belly-dancing. I hip-strut, setting the coins on my sash a-jingle. Customers pause, their eyes widening—a grey-haired mama belly-dancing? ‘If she can,’ I hear them thinking, ‘heck I can too.’ And so they should—at Swara InSpiritations next door.

Out on the boardwalk again, it is dusk. Moncton Street is spangled with Christmas lights and the afternoon face of the village has disappeared; it is no longer forlorn. Families with children, grandchildren, and pets are out for the evening…chatting, sipping hot chocolate at sidewalk cafes and pausing before shop windows.

At Papi’s Ristorante Italiano, the aroma of seafood is seductive and I round off my series of experiences by dining on wild salmon and prawns steamed in fig leaves, drizzled with date and anise seed vinaigrette.

It’s the perfect finale to a perfect day.

Getting to Steveston, BC, Canada

By car, Steveston is a half hour drive from downtown Vancouver.

Robusto - Premium Cigars & Coffee #160-13020 No. 2 Road, Richmond.Contact Elton WalkerPh: 604-448-5485 www.nuestrafamilia.ca

Raintree Day Spa #125 - 13020 No. 2 Road, RichmondContact Barbara BellPh: 604-274-4426 www.raintreedayspa.com

Steveston Village Gallery #125 - 3900 Bayview Street, RichmondContact: Tamaka FisherPh: 604-241-5771 www.stevestonvillagegallery.com

Serendipity’s Backyard 120-12031 First Avenue, RichmondContact: Deb McDonald or Shannon Sorenson Ph: 604-275-1683 www.serendipitysbackyard.ca

Steveston offers the discerning shopper a diversity of designer jewelry, curios, crafts, clothing and more. www.steveston.bc.ca/newsletter.html

Author: Margaret Deefholts