Big Island Vacation - Big Adventures
Hawaii’s live volcano draws ecotourists
Visiting Hawaii’s live volcano continues as tourists’ number one adventure. Hawaii Forest & Trails provide comfortable vans, picking ecotourists up early at their resort for a “Volcano Adventure” day.
Our group of ten traveled through lava plains, scorched deserts, pasture land, lush river valleys, tropical rain forests and over mountains. Our driver and guide, Jeanne Borowski presented a rolling Hawaiian natural history and cultural commentary. The Big Island is special. Larger than all the other Hawaiian Islands combined, its 4,028 square miles encompass eleven of earth’s thirteen climatic zones. Species arrived slowly upon this isolated island and evolved to fill each niche. A unique biodiversity resulted.
Along the lush Hamakua Coast, we breakfasted on history and local delicacies. A river of lava formed this delta park, Laupahoehoe Point. It developed into a cane worker’s settlement, which was washed away by the 1946 tsunami. Nut breads. White Pineapple. Strawberry Papayas. Delicious. Sadly, local fruit is often unexportable.
Traveling through ohia and giant fern forests, we arrived at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. Beaming, Jeanne confirmed the safe approach to view Pu’u ‘O’o lava flowing into the Pacific. “Incredibly good news! Today we’ll witness new land created.”
Passing a series of craters through the Kau desert, we descended to the dramatic volcanic coastal plain. The plain’s blacks, grays and browns date its lava flows. Most recent black lava degrades to grays. Grays oxidize to rusty browns. Recent flows covered the highway. With walking sticks and hip packs loaded with cameras, water and deli lunches, our group prepared for a three mile coastal hike atop the lava.
Generally we hiked on smooth undulating pahoehoe lava, avoiding crusty, sharp patches of a’a. Our group studied pahoehoe motifs and delicate golden strands of silica, “Pele’s hair”. After crossing hot, shiny metallic, acrid smelling two day old pahoehoe, we soon reached our goal. Hot, red lava oozed into the ocean. With every surge, steam rose to be seen for miles. Adjacent to new “Hawaiian real estate”, we picnicked.
Though Kona Coast Express connects a multitude of Kohala Coast-Waikoloa resorts boasting great beaches, renting a car added flexibility to our adventures. Idyllic Pu’uhana O Honaunau (City of Refuge) was soon revisited. Royal palms that gave us solace, once signaled safety to kapu-breakers.
My daughter and I found a konane lava rock to play historic “Hawaiian” checkers whereby “men” are captured for justice and sacrifice. Here, tikis greeted those escaping by sea. Temple priests offered absolution. A 10 foot high, 17 foot thick, and 1,000 foot-long mortarless lava rock wall bordered the landward side. Thatched huts, royal fish ponds, stone artifacts, and an outrigger recall life there spanning 600 years. Clad in loin cloth, an elder described early fishing techniques and seafaring skills still used today. A short walk away, I eased down lava steps into Honaunau Bay’s crystal waters to snorkel among spectacular coral and multicolored fish.
Visitor brochures encouraged us to enjoy picnics at two terrific snorkeling beaches. Anaeho’omalu Bay ‘s palm fringed beach and calm clear waters were extraordinary. We enjoyed a stroll around ancient fish ponds and village remains. Finding newly accessible, nearby Ka’upulehu, resulted in almost having a sugar sand beach to ourselves.
To experience secluded Pololu Valley, we joined two guides and another couple for Hawaii Forest and Trail’s traditional mule trek. Wally, mule mentor and mountain man, explained how well adapted mules are for managing steep rocky trails. Mules are strong and stubbornly steady. Spaced advantageously, mule eyes keep track of every sure step. Our family bonded to our trusty mules: Big Boy, J.J. and Loke Lani (Beautiful Flower).
The 500 foot descent along a narrow trail provided breathtaking coastal vistas at each switch back. At the bottom, the trail looped around a 2.5 mile path skirting the valley wall, taking us through dense blossoming hibiscus, open Java Plum/Guava forest, with stops at several sites of early Hawaiian and Chinese occupation. Taro, passion fruit, tangerines, and many medicinal plants still thrive in the meadows. We meandered along the trail taking in forest fragrances and bird fanfares. Crossing a creek, we proceeded over grassy sand dunes into an ironwood grove. Dismounting, we stretched our legs on a black sand beach.
Carrying us back up the zigzag trail to the Mule Station, we arrived with deeper appreciation for the gentle mule’s contributions as important Hawaiian transportation. Life in early Hawaii could be better imagined.
So big an island. So much to enjoy. We will return for more big adventures.
Prices & Considerations for the Featured Activities
Hawaii Forest & Trail (A fee percentage is channeled into native habitat preservation) Volcano Adventure Adults- $145 Ages 5-12 $99 Ages 4 & under Free -12 hour day adventure including breakfast & deluxe deli lunch- Kohala Mule Trail Adventure- 95 Ages 8-12 85 Under 8 ineligible. -3 hour morning or afternoon adventure beginning at Pololu Mule Station- (Weight limit - 245 lbs)
Author: Rick Millikan
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