Fells Point - Baltimore’s Historic District in Maryland

Maryland’s first National Historic District

My soft-chewy pretzel is oozing an immense glut of garlic, so much so, it could easily ward off a dozen vampires. I am savoring this local delicacy while browsing the Broadway market in the middle of a blue-collar streetscape. The market is a rich melting pot of ethnic flare, much like the immigrants that make up this eclectic community that is Fells Point, Baltimore, MD.

This working-port neighborhood was named after William Fell, an English land speculator, who purchased the peninsula in which Fells Point grew. This Baltimore Township was once renowned for its gritty working class roots but now lends itself to young urban professionals.

However, there is a rich past that emerges in stories recounted by locals. “Every Saturday morning, the neighborhood would come alive when women engaged in scrubbing their marble front steps. Back then, families were judged on how clean their steps were and this proud accomplishment turned into a tradition,” says Tony, a customer at the Waterfront Hotel Restaurant.

The Waterfront Hotel Restaurant is the second oldest brick building in Baltimore and withstood the Civil War and the First and Second World Wars. Its exposure reaches beyond visiting travelers. Since 1992, the building has been prominently featured on the NBC television series, “Homicide--Life on the Street.” Richard, long-time Baltimore resident, tells me about the infamous Fells Point robbery. During the filming of a segment for the series, life was imitating art. A would-be robber held up a local store and ran out to the street with an undisclosed amount of money. Mistaking the scene for authentic police officers, the robber surrendered to a crew of actors.

Under the guidance of director Nora Ephron, scenes from “Sleepless in Seattle” were shot in Fells Point. While the mercury soared well into the 30s the City Recreation Pier was transformed into a winter wonderland during a September filming. Producer/Director Barry Levison revived the form-stone (synthetic masonry) salesmen of the 1950s in a 1987 film. The movie is based on true stories and experiences of the form stone salesmen in Baltimore. The producers were concerned that the public wouldn’t recognize what form stone was, so they altered the storyline to something people could identify with--Aluminum Siding. Consequently, the film was suitably titled “Tin Men.”

Many row-houses and businesses have stripped away the form stone to reveal the original brick of the 18th-century. The neighborhood’s architecture varies from Federal, Greek Revival and early Victorian styles. The colonial-style Admiral Fell Inn on Thames Street was historically a boarding house for sailors and formerly a Seaman’s YMCA. The most recent tenant was a vinegar factory until the late 1970s, then closed until the hostelry was reborn in 1985 as the Admiral Fell Inn.

The European-style Inn sits stately among the brick sidewalks, antique shops, pubs and restaurants of this funky neighborhood on the water’s edge. Comprised of eight adjoining buildings, the 80 sleeping rooms are furnished with federal style antiques reflecting the community’s historic environment. The staff is attentive without being obtrusive.

Their pride in the Inn is evident in their commitment to the personal service, meeting each guest’s comforts and needs. Hamilton’s restaurant, the main dining attraction in the Inn, is a venture in New American Cuisine. Chef Robert Taylor creates a diverse menu, which evokes a contemporary flare. My selection, the States’ signature Rockfish, was delicately pan-roasted--accented with an asparagus and watercress cream. Brimming with flavor, I enjoyed the experience of sampling a local staple.

The seafaring past can also be enjoyed in the charming and cozy offerings of Celie’s waterfront bed and breakfast. This three story B&B houses seven guestrooms, each distinctly decorated with antiques and fine collectibles. The patio doors open onto a fragrant garden where a hearty continental breakfast is served in the private courtyard. The thick terry robe is a welcoming surprise after a relaxing soak in the whirlpool tub. Delightful and thoughtful touches add to the comfortable and quaint atmosphere of this romantic maritime retreat.

In the past, the threat of development of Fells Point seethed through the cracks of progress. A proposed interstate route to run along the waters edge threatened to disrupt the neighborhood’s eight square blocks. Fortunately, community members rallied together to halt the destruction of construction. Their efforts were rewarded and Fells Point was designated Maryland’s first National Historic District.

If you go:
Admiral Fell Inn : 1-800-292-INNS

Hamilton’s: 1-410-522-2195

Celie’s B&B: 1-800-432-0184

Author: Tracey Rayson