Baltimore Maryland - Discovering the Charm

The summer heat in Maryland could steam you as red hot as a blue crab - ripe and ready to crack. So when the sun disappears behind the only cloud in sight, I am thankful for the temporary relief. But within minutes, the rays reappear and persuade me to shift my stroll to the shady side of South Eutaw Street. Temporary relief, indeed. To my amusement, I have sought refuge in the shadow of the Bromo Seltzer Tower, Baltimore’s historic fifteen story landmark.

The Tower is one of many bench marks in a city full of signature treasures and historic events. Isaac E. Emerson, a captain in the Maryland Naval Reserve, and inventor of Bromo Seltzer, erected a 15 meter high Bromo Seltzer bottle on the top of the tower, illuminated by 596 blue lights. In 1911, it was the tallest building in the city with power to shine across the city and into bedroom windows afar. Outraged residents lost in the petition to have it removed. Ultimately, in 1936, the cast iron rusted and the bottle was taken down. The same residents undertook a “put the bottle back” campaign because it had become a significant monument in the city. Today, the tower is lit up with blue lights in memory of the bottle. Replacing its 12 numbers, the clock face is now adorned with the 12 letters spelling Bromo Seltzer.

For the most part, Baltimore is a refresher course in charm school.

In 1980, developer James Ralph, and William Donald Shaefer (once mayor), administered a booster shot in the arm of an aging blue collar port. Their vision transformed the questionable character of a sea port city, be revitalizing the Inner Harbour, the hub of tourism activity in the city today.

As the water taxi cruises toward the jetty, it instigates gentle ripples against the brick promenade, the fringe of the harbor’s epicenter. After I disembark I cannot separate the scores of tourists from the Baltimoreans. Residents and visitors alike engage in activities from shopping to patio dining. At “Phillips Harbour Place” I forego the opportunity to feast on the all-you-can-eat seafood buffet. My options range from slurping oysters on the half shell, to indulging in a not-so-scrawny crustacean. A busy hangout, it has been serving some of Maryland’s freshest seafood for over forty years.

The Maryland Science Center, Baltimore Maritime Museum and the National Aquarium are among the most popular inner harbor pavilions.

The National Aquarium resides on Pier 3 with a distinctive architectural glass-topped design. Notably, this underwater world houses over 5,000 aquatic creatures. Highlights include a coral reef exhibit, a showcase for dolphins and Beluga Whales, a rain forest, a marine mammal pavilion, an ominous shark tank and various venomous creatures.

Other noteworthy Inner Harbour structures include the World Trade Centre (the tallest pentagonal structure in the world, the ESPN Zone, (a prototype and first of its kind), and the Hard Rock Cafe. The secret behind the revitalization of Baltimore is the creativity used in redeveloping old buildings. The Hard Rock Cafe is much more than just a restaurant--until its metamorphosis, it used to be the old electrical Power Plant. Perhaps that’s why today the Cafe diffuses so much energy.

The appeal of the Inner Harbour is setting trends in other areas of the city. Maryland Tourism PR Relations coordinator Mindy Bianca says that, “within a few years there should be well lit, paved walkways leading from the Inner Harbour and connecting up with local neighborhoods such as Little Italy and Canton. Then, the glorious images that come to mind when you think of the harbor will soon follow suit in these other communities.”

Baltimore embodies the feisty and independent folksy neighborhoods it is famous for. Baltimoreans take as much pride in their historic homes as their beloved districts. Even the National Baseball Team is proud of their nesting grounds - Oriole Park at Camden Yards. I watch in amazement, the wide-eyed pride from over forty thousand fans, when the star of the most consecutive game-streak, Cal Ripkin steps up to the plate.

It’s clear that these homes have been made famous from their residents. A National Historic Site, the Babe Ruth birthplace and museum resides at 216 Emory Street. The facility includes exhibits on Maryland’s baseball archives, Orioles memorabilia, a gift shop and a short documentary film on the “Sultan of Swat.”

“The Master of the Macabre”, Edgar Allan Poe, resided in Baltimore for three years. During that time he wrote much of his early work. His house is open for tours at 200 North Amity Street. His white grave stone was bought by school children in 1870. They pitched in their “pennies for Poe” and the stone now commemorates his final resting place, along with his wife, mother-in-law, aunt and cousins.

The two storey red brick house at 844 East Pratt Street was the home of Mary Pickersgill. A National Historic landmark, this home is now call the Star-Spangled Banner Flag House & 1812 Museum. Mary was commissioned during the war of 1812 to sew a 30’ x 42’ flag for Fort Henry, inspiring Francis Scott Key to write the poem which became the United States’ national anthem. Because of its enormity, Mary took the flag to a local brew house, spread it out on the floor and sewed it together. The $405.90 receipt for the flag is on display at the Baltimore historic society.

Baltimore’s history also includes a slice of Hollywood. Looking more like an aluminum sided mobile home than a restaurant, the authentic “Diner” made famous by Barry Levinson’s movie of the same name, sits modestly on the corner of Saratoga and Holliday. The authentic Mountain View Diner built in 1954, first operated in Westbury Long Island, New York. It was moved to Baltimore in 1981 to become the location site for the film and then also appeared in the films, “Tin Men” and “Sleepless in Seattle.”

“Since 1991, the Diner has been operated by the Chesapeake Centre for Youth Development, a nonprofit organization whose programs provide important placement alternatives that help redirect young people to productive activities such as school, work and community service.”

The same sense of self-worth emits throughout urban life in Baltimore. Whether it is a corner delicatessen in Little Italy, a four star hotel restaurant in the Harbour, a national historic home or a classic row house, one thing remains constant - Baltimoreans take pride in themselves and their captivating neighborhoods. After all, there’s a reason why it’s affectionately called “charm city.”

If you go:
Baltimore Area Visitors Centre: 1-800-282-6632

Maryland Chamber of Commerce: 1-410-269-0642

Hyatt Regency Baltimore: 1-410-528-1234

Pisces Restaurant atop the Hyatt: 1-410-605-2835

Harbour City Tours: 1-410-254-TOUR

Oriole Park at Camden Yards: 1-410-547-6234

Author: Tracey Rayson