Flagstaff and Williams - Two Arizona Cities Destined To Be Destinations

Flagstaff & Williams give you kicks on Route 66

Location is everything, especially if you’re a town in northern Arizona labeled, “A principal access point for the Grand Canyon,” or “The gateway to the Grand Canyon.” Merely stopover towns perhaps, but once here, you may discover that Flagstaff and Williams are worthy of being called destinations on their own. You may also find that your reasons for stopping here will be very different from your reasons for staying.

Flagstaff is in ponderosa pine country in the heart of the Coconino National Forest on the longest remaining stretch of the old Route 66, 80 miles south of the Grand Canyon. As America’s most famous “open road” faced expiration, the spirit of the romanticized route was recreated in Flagstaff by owners of existing establishments. Capturing the enthusiasm, The Museum Club was later named among America’s ten best roadhouses by Car and Driver Magazine .

The Museum Club - a 1931 taxidermist’s shop and trading post - earned its reputation as a night club after prohibition in 1936. Here, original owner Dean Eldredge displayed his odd collection of stuffed animals: a two-headed cow, a six-legged sheep, and “freak ducks,” to the public for a 25-cent admission.

Coined, “The largest log cabin in Arizona,” and nicknamed “The Zoo,” The Museum Club now belongs to Martin and Stacie Zanzucchi. The club is built around five standing tree trunks with branches serving as support pillars, adding authenticity to the museum’s western roadhouse atmosphere. An inverted ponderosa pine that Eldredge made into a doorway marks the entrance.

The Museum Club operates as a country and western establishment with live bands nightly. During the 60s and 70s, the Zoo served as stompin’ grounds for such legendaries as Waylon Jennings, Hank Williams and Willie Nelson. Today, “it continues to host rising stars of country music and the new sounds of Nashville.”

In the famous words of Bobby Troup, “If you ever plan to motor west, my way, the highway, that’s the best. Get your kicks on route 66.” When you’re in town, get your “kicks” at the Museum Club. Their road smart service for guests, Operation Safe Ride, provides free round trip taxi service. Just call a Friendly Cab, (602) 774-4444 and say, “Take me to The Zoo!” 3404 E. Route 66. Flagstaff, AZ 86004. (602) 526-9434 or fax (602) 526-5244

Interior of Red Garter (circa1934) showing Longino Mora (left) with wife Clara and youngest daughter Carmina. Interior of the Red Garter “then”, (c.1934) showing Longino Mora (left) with wife Clara and youngest daughter Carmina. Notice the woman in the left background. Her reflection doesn’t appear in the mirror. (a ghost?). Photo courtesy of Carmina Saggau (Mora), and The Red Garter.

Flagstaff is situated in a massive playground of Ponderosa Pines -- the heart of the Coconino National Forest. In this alpine country, the mountain are not simply a part of your view, they are part of what you do. North of Flag, “The Arizona Snowbowl” and “Flagstaff Nordic Center” offer some of the state’s best skiing on Arizona’s highest mountains, the San Francisco Peaks. The area also provides a full range of summer recreational activities including hiking, biking, and camping. P.O. Box 40 Flagstaff, AZ 86002. (520) 779-1951, fax (520) 779-3019.

A must do while in Flagstaff is a shuttle stop at the Lowell Observatory, from where the planet Pluto was first sighted. Here, at the modern visitor’s center, are hands-on exhibits, the century-old Clark telescope, and scenic campus to enjoy. Evening star gazing sessions, tours, and programs provide an intimate experience with space. 1400 West Mars Hill Rd. Flagstaff, AZ 86001. (520) 774-2096

Accommodation in Flagstaff is abundant, offering a wide range of motels, hotels and Inns. The Best Western Pony Soldier, with 90 rooms and family suites, provides comfort, value and convenience. It offers a pool, spa, The Alpen-Haus restaurant, and complimentary continental breakfast. Centrally located on Route 66, scenic attractions are close by. Reservations: (520) 526-2388 or 1-800-356-4143 fax (520) 527-8329 3030 E. Route 66, Flagstaff, AZ 86004.

Built by John Weatherford, a Texas merchant, the first day of the twentieth century marked the opening of what the southwest considered the most socially prominent grand facility of its day. The Hotel Weatherford was deemed the “finest hotel in Arizona”.

It was here that Zane Grey wrote his novel, The Call of the Canyon . Here too, Wyatt Earp left his bullet hole in an upstairs wooden door. “It’s where card games were played for high stakes and hot lead often flew around or between the ears of the shifty.”

President Theodore Roosevelt was one of its more famous guests, as was Artist Thomas Moran, whose original paintings continue to adorn the walls.

Among salvaged and priceless remodeled fixtures, the original fireplace has been restored, “literally dug out from behind layers of plaster”. Current owners Henry Taylor and Pamela “Sam” Green have worked long and hard to restore the historic structure to its turn-of-the-century charm, and in l978, the hotel was honored as Flagstaff’s first building to be listed in the National Register of Historic Places.

Today’s Weatherford Hotel houses Charley’s Pub and Grill on the main floor, and the new Zane Grey Ballroom on the second. This newly restored ballroom is adorned with an antique mirrored Brunswick bar from Tombstone, beautiful stained glass windows, original wool rugs and hard wood floors. On the second and third floors, the reasonably priced rooms of’ The Hotel Weatherford Hostel reside.

“Here is a place for backpackers and adventure travelers looking for affordable accommodation en route to the Grand Canyon. We host a variety of guests, including many international travelers, “says the receptionist. Room with private bath is $32/ night, based on double occupancy; a single in the same room is $28/night. Hostel members’ dormitory lodging $12/night or non members $15/night. 23 N. Leroux St. Flagstaff, AZ 86001 (520) 774-2731 Or fax (520) 773-8591. Charley’s Pub & Grill (520) 779-1919.

Pasto, the “fun Italian Diner”, is a renowned eatery in Flagstaff . Danny Egan, general Manager of Pasto, oversees this casual and creative “taste of Italy” where a well crafted wine list compliments an authentic array of Italian cuisine. Entrees: $7.95-$13.95. Reservations: (520) 779-1937 19 East Aspen, Flagstaff, AZ. 86001

Thirty miles West of Flagstaff lies Williams, the other town most notable for its proximity to the Grand Canyon. Like Flagstaff, Williams is also in the pith of pine country. Residing in the heart of the Kaibab National Forest, elevation 6,770 feet, surrounded by Ponderosa, Pinon, and Juniper pines, it serves as the forest’s headquarters. Relying primarily on tourism as the main source of economy, Williams promotes itself as a historic, well preserved town.

In 1984, special status was gained when the downtown business core of Williams, an area covering six square blocks, was listed on the National Register of Historic Places. That same year is became the last “Route 66” town.

Within its boundaries stands the Fray Marcos Hotel, the oldest and largest surviving concrete poured edifice in Arizona. Named for Fray Marcos de Niza, a member of a Spanish expedition led by Coronado, it features the same architectural style as the Williams depot, built in 1908.

Turn of the century elegance shows through in a palate of southwestern colors, rich and subtle. Original oil paintings by local artist Kenneth McKenna bring the life of the canyon and southwestern landscapes into the hotel’s lobby. The refurbished 89 room modern day retreat features a gift shop, Spenser’s, which serves casual dinner fare and cocktails from a 19th century bar, and easy access to the Williams Depot amenities. Reservations and Info: 1-800-843-8724 or (520) 635-4010 or fax (520) 773-1610. 235 N. Grand Canyon Blvd. Williams, AZ 86046. Business office 123 N. San Francisco, Suite 210 Flagstaff, AZ 86001

Bunking down for the evening in Williams will find you resting your head on history. Lodging here has a heritage all its own, and if the walls could talk in the Red Garter Bed and Bakery, I’m certain they could tell the best of the bedtime stories.

John Holst, local historian/Inn Keeper of The Red Garter, has brought to life through restoration and remodeling an 1897 two story bordello. Once a prosperous saloon and bordello, original owner August Tetzlaff housed loggers, railroad workers, cowboys, and mountain men, who drank, gambled and supported the working women -- the ladies of the evening.

Railroad Avenue back then was referred to as the infamous “Saloon Row” where other gambling parlors, opium dens and brothels lined the block. Today the centrally located Red Garter building celebrates its centennial, commemorating the years 1897 to 1997.

Holst eagerly shared the wealth of the Garter’s historical insights with me, and during a tour of the Inn, frontier days came alive with vivid accounts and stories of generations past.

Complete with a back door escape route, two-story out-house and a choice of four second floor rooms, Holst remodeled the entire interior, in keeping with the integrity of the original building. Local brick, some charred, covered several windows of the Garter when the establishment next door built a second floor adjacent to the bordello. Natural light permeates through restored skylights that Holst says “have been there for years.”

Ornately carved moldings and trims bring to life the turn-of-the century charm in the plush honeymoon suite. With antique decor, and adjoining sitting room, it was once the renowned “Best gals room,” utilized only by “the Madam’s best looking women,” said Holtz. The room next door, of course, belonged to the Madam herself. Bawdy writing, perhaps written by her, is scrawled on the wall. Still legible, it reads, “One you did not get. You missed something good. Sept. 8, 1903.”

The first floor now houses the bakery that Holst runs by himself. As carpenter and cook, he manages both tasks effectively and profitably. “The bakery has been in operation since Spring 1996, and adds a unique twist to the common bed and breakfast lodging,” admits Holst. Long before pies and pastries, a pool table was the center of attention when Longino Mora, a Bootlegger, ran it as a saloon in 1943 for 10 years, through prohibition. The Red Garter Bed & Bakery, 137 West Railroad Ave. Williams, AZ 86046 1-800-328-1484 or (520) 635-1484 www.amdest.com

Next door was yet another saloon, one of the oldest (103 yrs. old) buildings in Williams. Once occupied by the Cabinet Saloon, it catered to a loud and boisterous group of local residents, who came to drink and gamble away their pay cheques in the houses of ill repute. A poster describes the events of the times. “Fights, shootings, and knifings got so out of hand that in 1901, to prevent those evils from spreading, city Father’s passed an ordinance restricting prostitution to this area of town.”

Opened in 1994 as a Mexican Cantina, Pancho McGillicuddy’s is a lively, Tex/Mex mix of good fun. Authentic renovations and decor reflect the 1800s and Manager Kevin Kennelly told me “some of the structure is original, like the doors and frames--the ceiling there is 80 years old.”

The crowd today is just as lively as in days gone by, but perhaps better behaved. Live entertainment on week-ends fills this 100 seat cantina with locals and gringos alike. Excellent Mexican fare, I recommend you try the sizzling fajitas. 141 Railroad Avenue, Williams, AZ (602) 635-4150.

With all that Northern Arizona has to offer, you should prepare an itinerary that includes an extra few days. You never know, after spending time in Flagstaff and Williams, you might have forgotten what led you there in the first place. Don’t be surprised, if after experiencing these two towns, you’ll find yourself committed to more than a mere stopover on your way to that place, what was it called--you know--the Grand what?

If you go to Flagstaff or Williams:

Flagstaff Visitor Center 1 E. Route 66, Flagstaff, AZ 86001, 1-800-842-7293 (520) 774-9541 Fax: (520) 556-1308

Flagstaff Convention & Visitors Bureau 323 W. Aspen Ave., Flagstaff, AZ. Mailing Address: 211 W. Aspen Ave., Flagstaff, AZ 86001 (520) 779-7611 Fax: (520) 556-1305

Flagstaff Chamber Of Commerce 101 W. Route 66, Flagstaff, AZ 86001 (520) 774-4505

Williams Visitor Center/Grand Canyon Chamber Of Commerce 200 West Railroad Avenue, Williams, AZ 86046 (520) 635-4061 Fax: (520) 635-1417

Author: Tracey Rayson