San Juan Capistrano - San Juan Capistrano Mission Incredible

Historical walking tours and cycling are the way to see this area of Southern California

Almost as often as the swallows, I return to the Mission. For over 200 years people have been traveling to San Juan Capistrano. Just as in its early history, no car is necessary.

After a flight to sunny California’s L.A. International Airport, a quick shuttle to Union Station, and a relaxing Amtrak train ride, I arrived at the heart of the old mission community. I stepped into California history at the red brick, dome-topped San Juan Capistrano station, the pride of the Santa Fe in 1894. Framed by palm trees and flowers, this is the oldest Mission Revival style station in Southern California. From a brick kiosk a uniformed volunteer gave me a historical walking tour pamphlet and cycling map.

Crossing the tracks, I investigated Los Rios District’s 31 historic buildings. Pepper trees, willows, black ash, and blue blossomed jacarandas shade and beautify this old town neighborhood, visited mainly by pedestrians and cyclists. Of three adobes built in 1794, one remains home to the 11th generation of the Rios family.

The Victorian style O’Neill home was built in the 1870s by a saloon keeper’s wife, Dolores Garcia. The home, now a museum reflecting early times, provided a refuge in this wild western town, a stage coach stop between Los Angeles and San Diego. Her husband, standing at his saloon’s front door, was murdered by a single Winchester shot. An incident not unfamiliar in frontier days.

Along San Juan Capistrano’s quiet main street, whitewashed adobes from the early 1800s remain open for business. This California style town blends its historic periods with a variety of stuccoed, bricked, red tiled and porticoed antique shops, jewelry stores, art galleries and restaurants.

I soon entered the adobe-walled, ten acre Mission. Birds of paradise and fragrant garden roses abound. A fountain bubbles into a pool alive with pond lilies and gold fish. The carillon pealed as I contemplated the statue of Father Junipero Serra. He situated 21 Missions at a one day’s walk between each along the Camino Real. In 1776 Brother Junipero Serra established San Juan Capistrano, the jewel of the California Missions.

Isidro Aguilar, master Mexican stone mason, constructed the Cathedral. Pious Juaneno Indian laborers carried large rocks on their backs or in oxen drawn carettas from present day Mission Viejo and El Toro. Women and children contributed baskets of small stones.

Missions were built inland to avoid pirate cannon and attacks. Upon sighting a Jolly Roger, Juanenos, dressed as soldiers equipped with boot blackened wooden rifles, marched to the shore bluffing off raids. Yet in 1818 pirates did attack. The population fled with valued possessions into the surrounding hills. Pirates found an abandoned community and a cathedral already devastated by the 1812 earthquake. The 140 raiders scavenged little.

Migrating swallows nest in the cathedral ruins, “the American Acropolis.” Pigeons reside nearby. Tamed by decades of birdseed, these birds coo and perch readily on delighted tourists’ hands, shoulders and heads.

Cactus displays front the buildings to the west. As I admired the prickly pear cactus, A local asked, “Hungry? The red fruit and leaves are edible.” Smiling, I meandered on around the quadrangle of museum exhibits, soldiers’ barracks, priests’ residences, and leather-working areas. Enormous bougainvilleas drape arched porticoes of the connecting buildings. Once the enclosure was a plaza for bull fighting and other ranchero entertainments. Now the adobes enclose a large garden with a central fountain. From Serra Chapel’s secluded entry, I viewed the magnificent 300 year old gilded Baroque altar. The Chapel’s exit leads to the community founders’ cemetery and meditation garden.

Mission activities include art exhibits, concerts, event re-enactments, and costumed docents presenting living history on the last Saturday of the month.

Walk along San Juan Creek, an early commerce route. For cycling this level four mile trail, as I did, a bicycle rental shop is five blocks south of the Mission. Enter this trail at Los Rios. The trail progresses with sightings of egrets, snowy herons, coots, various ducks, sea gulls and pelicans. At Dana Point, enjoy beaches, shops, restaurants, aquariums, and view the historic tall ship, Pilgrim. The Pilgrim’s sailors traded for the Mission’s leather.

Hiking south from Dana Point along the beach, you soon enter San Clemente with its appealing Spanish architecture. Stroll its pier and meet pelican good will ambassadors, Sea More and See Less! Laguna Beach, Corona del Mar, and Newport Beach are short bus or cycle rides to the north.

San Juan Capistrano, a starting point to Southern Californian history and travel, offers the visitor a healthy holiday full of charm and serenity.

For a Walking and/or Cycling Tour of the Area:

Shuttle to Amtrak from the LAX red curb ($15 first person, $8 second... Add $10 per bicycle).

In the car pool lane, it’s a fast 20 mile ride.

Take a frequently scheduled Amtrak or Trans Link from Los Angeles to San Juan Capistrano ($12). The train services usually (check) carry bicycles (free). Amtrak provides comfort & convenient stops near California attractions. (Reservations & Information 1-800-USA-RAIL)

The extensive Bus system, OCA, provides good service for the Orange County area ($I). Buses have easy-to-use bike racks.

Expansive development of scenic cycle routes and trails is a legacy of the Los Angeles Olympics cycle racing.

Author: Rick Millikan