Madrid, New Mexico: A Welcome Mat on the Turquoise Trail

North America United States Southwest New Mexico

Understanding “The Land of Enchantment”

The Turquoise Trail is a rewarding route running from Albuquerque to Santa Fe, where the freeway takes a back seat to scenery and history.

Eighty kilometers east of Albuquerque is the once booming coal mining town of Madrid. A haven for artisans and entrepreneurs, this former “ghost town” now bustles with business. Aside from an influx of tourism, the growth of Madrid remains limited due to a lack of water.

When Madrid was a thriving mining town, water was brought in by train. Today, the train no longer runs and the residents buy bottled drinking water. My search for bottled water lands me in Blondies Coal Town Diner. Famous for his homemade breakfasts and sandwiches, Dan Ford takes time away from the griddle to welcome me to his eatery. Within minutes I am introduced to regular customers as, “Dan’s new friend.” Although 3,000 kilometers away, I suddenly feel at home.

It’s high noon and New Mexico’s sun drives me to dehydration. To conserve the town’s precious resource, water is served only by request at restaurants. With that in mind, if you belly up to the bar at the Mine Shaft Tavern, you will be served from the longest stand-up bar in New Mexico. The 1.5-meter lodge pole pine bar is the original in this tavern which first opened its doors in 1946.

The all wood buildings of Madrid are atypical of New Mexican adobe architecture, giving the community an Appalachian coal town feel. Over 20 galleries, studios and shops line the Turquoise Trail’s main road, where many old company stores and houses have been converted to shops.

The Red Railcar Trading Post has a prominent presence on Main St. due to its life-size figure of John Wayne and the traveling trading car. This shop is a must-see for fine antiques, collectibles and western furniture.

History buffs will delight in the Old Coal Mine and Engine House Theatre. Adjacent to the Mine Shaft Tavern, this block-long memorial pays tribute to the industry that peaked here in 1928. The self-guided tour contains a coal mine shaft and a 1900 steam locomotive that encourages visitors of all ages to ring the bell and play engineer. Engine 769 is currently the most complete non-operating steam locomotive in the United States.

Unlike the popular and abundant turquoise stone, Madrid is a rare gem: charming, timeless and precious.

Author: Tracey Rayson