Playa Del Carmen

Undiscovered jewel of the Mexican Riviera

My travel buddy’s words were as clear as the Caribbean waters when we left paradise. “If you have to write about Playa Del Carmen, tell them it was awful - the beaches are terrible, everyone’s rude and there’s nothing to do,” he said selfishly. “I don’t want anyone else discovering this place.”

Of course, nothing is further from the truth for this relatively unknown spot on the Mexican Riviera.

The beaches are fantastic, people are friendly and everything from delectable dining to scuba diving is here in Playa Del Carmen. “Playa” has kept its charm, so far escaping the tourist hoards and commercialization that has swept nearby Cozumel and Cancun.

But it’s only a matter of time. Twenty years ago, Playa was a tiny fishing village across from Cozumel Island. There was no electricity, no running water and plenty of jungle for its 250 residents.

Changes have been even more recent: Hotel owners Sandy Dillon and her husband Bill remember seven years ago when Treetops Hotel - where cabanas and rooms share a tropical courtyard - was north of town, in the jungle. Today, the restaurants, shops and inns of a growing Playa Del Carmen surround them. Playa has become a favored playground for backpackers and tourists from Europe, North America and even elsewhere in Mexico.

The heart of Playa is its sandy beach. The beach is topless, if you choose. But don’t fear: In Playa nobody cares. You can wear anything from the tiniest thong bikini to knee-length swim trunks without feeling out of place.

Playa’s charm also lies with the Avenida Quinta - a lively pedestrian walkway - and the town plaza, just steps from the ferry dock to Cozumel. Outdoor cafes, bars and boutiques that line this mall make here the place to be in Playa. Here you can easily wile away the afternoon on a patio, sipping on margaritas while listening to salsa music, courtesy of local musicians.

Small restaurants - run by locals and foreigners - serve everything from traditional Mayan food to seafood delicacies such as lobster and crab. Two must-try dishes are sopa de lima, or lime soup, and pollo pibil, a Mayan dish with chicken baked in banana leaves. And for desert, the fried bananas and Spanish café - complete with a fiery floorshow shouldn’t be missed.

Playa’s heart may be the beach, but its soul is the people. Nowhere else in Mexico will you find such a mix of foreigners: Playa’s a favorite for Germans, Dutch, English and French, more so than Canadians and Americans. This international milieu makes the nightlife that much more enticing.

And Playa’s got great nightlife - without the glitz. The two best hangouts are the Blue Parrot, an outdoor beach bar with wooden swings and thatched umbrellas, and Captain Tutik’s, a rustic nightclub that doesn’t shut down until the crowds thin out around 5 a.m.

Those who have discovered Playa Del Carmen have fought hard to preserve this town’s charm. Local business owners have tried fending off big business, chain restaurants and gigantic hotels. They’ve had limited success.

When Burger King tried to set up shop in the Avenida Quinto, the town fought the American fast-food chain. The result: Burger King did get an outlet, but it was located off the main drag. Last November a sign for “Hooters,” the tacky American food joint, was hoisted onto a stucco facade -to the frustration of local businesses.

The local hotel association was less successful stopping a luxury four-floor hotel that now dominates Playa’s northern point, an anomaly in this town of beachside cabanas and quaint hotels. But don’t feel for a moment that the people of Playa don’t want you: Their Mexican hospitality is second to none.

Just don’t be surprised if, when you’re torn from paradise, you’ll also want to keep this place a secret.

Getting there:

Playa Del Carmen is a 45-minute drive south of Cancun, where the Yucatan’s international airport is. Visitors to Cozumel Island can take a 45-minute ferry to Playa Del Carmen, which run hourly and cost about CAN$7.00 each way

Several Mexican buses provide daily service between Cancun and Playa; prices are about CAN$2 a trip for the 65-kilometre journey. The bus station is centrally located near Playa’s town square. American and Canadian currency can be converted in several money exchange places in Playa Del Carmen, although the banks have the best rates.

Author: Doug Alexander