Tahiti Cruises - South Seas Romance à la Paul Gauguin

No wonder French Impressionist sought romance in Polynesia

The night breeze caresses us with its tropical warmth. Directly over the ship’s bow shines the rectangular Southern Cross. Beyond it, we gaze towards the centre of the Milky Way and its pearly luminescence gleams in the black velvet sky. With nights like this, it is no wonder artist Paul Gauguin fled France to search out the romantic life in French Polynesia.

Gary and I are following in Gauguin’s footsteps, if only for seven days. We’re on board Radisson Seven Seas Cruises’ casually elegant ship the m/s Paul Gauguin, which is based in the azure waters of French Polynesia. It sails to islands that look like the paradise you’ve always imagined and whose names are completely evocative of romance - Tahiti, Bora Bora, and Moorea. The ship’s relaxed ambience, refined décor, and superlative service are designed to enhance the feeling of South Seas romance and we’re ready to indulge.

Breakfast on our stateroom balcony gets the day’s pursuit of romance off to a splendid start. We nibble on flaky croissants and tangy local pineapple while cruising by tiny islets fringed with palm trees and ringed by jewel-like turquoise water.

The blend of blue and green colors is candy for the eyes. Off in the distance, the lush, dark green, volcanic peaks of Bora Bora loom, the crests looking sharp enough to cut the sky. Most of the beaches on the islands are small; the reefs protect the shoreline from wave erosion and big beaches have not formed. The scenery fosters a romantic’s dream of living on a deserted island and the Paul Gauguin stops at its private island or motu to make that dream come true for a day.

We start by circumnavigating on foot the palm-covered island, splashing in the warm shallows and marveling at the clear, turquoise water. For the first time, I see coconuts sprouting cute little palm trees and sea slugs the size of cucumbers (reef shoes are a necessity here).

The crew prepares a bountiful barbecue and serves drinks in hollowed out green coconuts that are so heavy, I have to lift mine with both hands. We wile away the afternoon with some snorkeling, some kayaking, and some daydreaming about staying here. “I loved the private motu” fellow shipmate Judy later exclaims. “I took the ship’s first tender there and the last tender back and didn’t want to leave.” Spoken like a true romantic.

It’s not all about lazing around on deserted islands -- romantics like gaining some knowledge too. On board, a variety of lectures and demonstrations satisfy those needs. An anthropologist lectures on the origins of the South Pacific and an archaeologist discusses ancient Tahiti. A biologist acquaints us with the spinner dolphin population that resides in the waters around Moorea.

A “Mutiny on the Bounty - What Really Happened” lecture outlines a far different tale than the movies did. The Head Sommelier’s entertaining wine tasting compares some French and California wines and is summed up with the advice “Drink what you like.” The Executive Chef offers champagne and chocolate covered strawberries on the galley tour - indulgent treats for romantics learning about the intricacies of food preparation on a cruise ship.

Les Gauguines, a troupe of lovely young Polynesian girls dressed in a variety of costumes, are perhaps the best ambassadors for the islands. They teach shell lei weaving, dancing, and pareo tying, which is how to tie a brightly colored rectangle of cloth into a piece of clothing like the locals do.

Besides entertaining on deck and at dinner with traditional songs and dances, they give classes in Tahitian language and lore. Nightly, a card featuring a Paul Gauguin painting and an ancient Polynesian legend is left next to the Tikki god in our stateroom. We’ll leave the ship with an appreciation of the culture and history of the islands that will enhance our memories.

Where better to end a day’s pursuit of romance than at a table for two for dinner? Not having to get dressed up in the tropic heat is welcome -- the Paul Gauguin has a “country club casual” dress code for all three of its decidedly different dining venues. L’Etoile is the main dining room with open seating so we can choose to have a table to ourselves or join others. Le Grill, outside on the pool deck, offers Tahitian specialties.

Apicius is designed to impress, with a menu by the chef of the two Michelin starred restaurant of the same name in Paris. We’re seated at tables with electric candles and service begins with welcoming glasses of Veuve Cliquot champagne. Apicius has my vote for the most romantic of the dining choices even before the meal is served. Lingering over dessert, we discuss our evening’s entertainment options.

The M/S Paul Gauguin is not the ship for glitzy, Las Vegas style revues but never the less, offers a variety of quality shows.

There is a magician with the fastest fingers ever to handle a deck of cards, a rock group that puts out some big sound, or a New York style cabaret. Les Gauguines perform their gentle songs and swaying dances. There’s some mellow piano in the lounge or dancing in the disco. After being pleasantly entertained, we step outside for a late night deck stroll. I’m sure Paul Gauguin would have agreed - it’s most romantic to finish a French Polynesian day by gazing at the stars.

FYI:The artist Paul Gauguin (1848 - 1903) was a contemporary of Pissarro and van Gogh. He abandoned France and spent the latter part of his life in Tahiti and the Marquesas Islands. His paintings are characterized by broad strokes and a bold color palette.

Author : Karoline Cullen and Gary Cullen