Santiago: The Romantic Heart of Chile

Where the world ends and romance begins

Santiago, Chile, is a romantic city. Nothing, it seems, can snuff the romance from the air - not the short-lived rule of a communist president or a long military rule. That became clear to me during the year I taught English there in 1983-84 when General Augusto Pinochet ruled the land

The city is still that way as I discovered on a more recent trip. Spring and fall are the most romantic times in Santiago. Couples are everywhere: walking arm-in-arm, kissing on park benches, in intimate conversations in cafes, lying side-by-side in the parks.

The bustling city, with an old-fashioned colonial heart, offers much for romancing couples, and tourists. Situated in the valley of the River Maipo about two hours drive from the coast, the sprawling city of about 5 million people stretches into the foothills of the Andean Mountains. On a clear day - in its valley location the city suffers from smog - gray mountains stand like mysterious, snow-capped guardians overlooking the valley

On my most recent visit I was happy to discover that Cerro San Cristobal, where I took my then-fiancée on our second date, is still as beautiful as ever. Dominated by the 22-metre-high statue of the Virgen de la Inmaculada, the Cerro San Cristobal is actually a spur of the Andes, which thrusts 860 meters upwards from the heart of the Santiago. It is a perfect spot for a park, providing visitors with a panoramic view of the city and the surrounding mountains.

As during my earlier stay in Santiago, I took my wife on the funicular (cable train) to reach the Piscina (swimming pool) Tupahue near the top of San Cristobal. As the train slowly wound its way through the heavily-treed park, we talked about our earlier date and how little Cerro San Cristobal had changed. The telesférico (cable car) provided a wonderful sensation of floating on air as it took us on the final part of the journey to Tupahue. The clear waters of the pool and the surrounding gardens provided us with a beautiful spot for reflection and a quiet picnic, just as they did during the first days of our romance.

At my insistence, we took a bus home after our visit. The buses in Santiago are frequent, cheap and often offer charming entertainment. On the way home three young boys sang heart-rending sentimental songs accompanied by a guitar, and accordion. They touched the hearts of the local passengers - and tourists - and did well when they passed around a hat for donations.

After the three boys had left, a salesman, with the bus driver’s permission, clambered on board with a satchel full of pencils and notebooks. Politely he pitched his products from the front of the bus before making the rounds to see if anyone was interested. I never felt any pressure to buy, but the price was good and I bought two sets for my nieces. In this generally courteous city, youths stand and offer their seats to older people and women

Santiago is the political, financial, industrial and cultural center of Chile with many different faces, but its colonial heart still survives. Founded in 1541 by Pedro de Valdivia, the city retains many architectural gems from the past: the Palacio de la Moneda (presidential palace), for instance, built in 1784 with its florid, ornate façade now repaired from the shelling which took place during the military coup of 1973; the Plaza de Armas established in 1541 on which is situated Santiago’s neoclassical cathedral; the Church of San Francisco constructed in 1586, perhaps the best preserved colonial building in the city

The Chilean people, predominately of Spanish origin, have been cross-fertilized by the native inhabitants and settlers from almost every European country. Their varied heritage has distilled into typical Chilean features of large eyes of varying colors, straight usually dark hair and often-aquiline features. Chilean women have a wonderful sense of style and love to dress in clothes of the latest fashion.

Santiago’s background shows in its food and restaurants. Ethnic restaurants from Europe and Asia abound. Plentiful fruits and vegetables, available from markets and outdoor stalls, have a wonderful smell and rich taste. Perhaps the intensity springs from Chile’s fertile volcanic soil. The country’s long coastline yields some of finest and most varied seafood in the world and many traditional plates are specialties from the sea.

For a relaxed and entertaining evening we visited the barrio Bella Vista, a slightly bohemian district with indoor and outdoor restaurants and nightclubs of different styles offering music ranging from salsa to rock. It’s a wonderful spot to pass a friendly, and romantic, evening. Within an hour or so from Santiago are stimulating outdoor opportunities: hiking, hot water springs, skiing and charming villages

In the language of one its indigenous peoples, Chile means, “Where the world ends.” Because Chile was the place where I met my wife, it always symbolizes to me a new beginning - a beginning that blossomed out of Santiago’s romantic disposition.

Author : Tony MacGregor